"Tulip Glow In Black" Dress

I love making crochet dresses for toddlers; it has been one of my favorite past times ever since I learned making clothes when I was fifteen years old. Back then, I used to make garments for my younger sisters, and later in life, for my daughters. I also like mixing between my hobbies, by combining sewing with crochet, for example, when making dresses.

The dress in this post is not actually a new design; I made it several years ago. And as I mentioned in a previous post, what prevents me from sharing similar designs is the sewing/crocheting mix in the tutorial instructions, and how not every person who excels in crocheting/knitting can also sew and vice versa.

Nevertheless, if you like the yokes I make, and you are familiar with making crochet dresses, then feel free to finish the dress with whatever crochet skirt design you like. The yoke is simple, and its instructions are both written and illustrated. I hope you find it suitable for your beloved little missies.

Intermediate level

Materials:

• Yarn: Catania Schachenmaer Fine, 100% cotton, 50g, 125m in Black 00110 (3 skeins), White 00106 (1 skein), Red 00115 (1 skein), and Green 00419 (1 skein).
• Hook, size 3.5 mm/ US 4.
• Yarn needle
• Three buttons, 1.5 cm diameter.

Gauge: 

28 sts x 27 rows in 4 x 4 inches
sc stitch pattern.


Yardage:

• 250-300 m/ 280-350 yards (size 3 years) approx.
• 300-350 m/ 330-385 yards ( size 5 years) approx.

Dimensions/ size:

• 3 years old: 58 cm/23" under arm bust circumference, 20 cm/ 8" height from shoulder.
• 5 years old: 65 cm/25.5" under arms bust, 25 cm/ 10" height from shoulder.

Crochet terms (US):

• ch: chain.
• ss: slip stitch.
• sc: single crochet.
• dc: double crochet.

How to make Popcorn stitch:

1. Work 5 double crochet (dc) stitches in the same stitch.
2. Drop the loop from your hook.
3. Insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first double crochet of the group.
4. Grab the dropped loop with your hook and pull it through the stitch.

Instructions:

Notes:

• ch 1 at the beginning of rows is not a countable st.
• When the popcorn row is finished on right side, the next sc row in black yarn is also worked on right side.
• The instructions between parentheses are for the large size.

Back:

With black yarn and 3.5 mm hook, make 66 (78) chains

Row 1 (right side): sc in second ch and every ch, turn. (65, 77 sts)

Row 2: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: repeat row 2. cut yarn.



Tulip flower pattern

With green yarn, work next row:

Row 4: make a standing dc, (or ch 3 in first st), skip st, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in st, skip 2 sts, repeat from * to last 3 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in st, skip st, dc in last st, cut yarn, turn.

With red yarn, work next row:

Row 5 (right side): make a standing dc and ch 1, (or ch 4 in first st), skip dc, * popcorn st in ch 1 space, skip 2 dc, ch 2, repeat from * to last ch 1 space, popcorn in ch 1 space, skip dc, ch 1, dc in last dc (or in third ch of ch 3), cut yarn, don’t turn.

With black yarn:

Row 6 (right side): make a standing sc, (or ch 1 and sc in first st), sc in ch 1 space, *sc in popcorn st, sc 2 in ch 2 space, repeat from * to last popcorn, sc in popcorn, sc in ch 1 space, sc in last dc, turn.

Row 7 and 8: repeat row 2.

Row 9: with green yarn, repeat rows 4.

Row 10: with white yarn, repeat row 5 .

Row 11: with black yarn, repeat row 6.

With black yarn, repeat row 4 three times.



Right backside:

Arm line shaping and back opening:

Row 1: Ss 4, ch 1, sc 31 (37), turn. 31 (37) sts

Row 2: ch 1, sc 28 (34) turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc 26 (32), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 (27, 35) times.



Right Neckline shaping:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 10 (16), turn.

Repeat row 3 twice, cut yarn leaving 6 inches for shoulder seem sewing.



Left backside:

Arm line shaping and back opening:

With black yarn, bind on in fifth st of the first row of right backside center end (see the photo), work as follows:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 31(37), turn. 31(37) sts

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc 28 (34), turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 26 (32), turn.

Repeat row 3 once more.



Making first buttonhole:

Row 5: ch 1, sc 2, skip 2 sts, ch 2, sc to end, turn.

Row 6: ch 1, sc to ch 2 space, sc 2 in ch 2 space, sc to end, turn.

Row 7: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

*Repeat row 7 eleven (thirteen) times, repeat rows 5 and 6 to make second button hole, repeat from * once more time (making third button hole within), repeat row 7 once (three) times.



Left Neckline shaping:

Row 1: ss 11, ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc 12 (18), turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc (10, 16), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 once, cut yarn leaving 6 inches for shoulder seem sewing.

Front:

Work the same as back until arm lines shaping:

Row 1: Ss 4, ch 1, sc to last 4 sts, turn. 57 (69) sts

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc 63, turn. 51 (63 sts)

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc 59, turn. 47 (59 sts)

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 eighteen (twenty two) times, then make right side neckline shaping as follows:



Right neckline shaping:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 10 (16), turn.

Repeat row 10 times, cut yarn.



Left neckline shaping:

Leave 17 center sts, bind on yarn, work as follows:

Row 1: ss 11, ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc 12 (18), turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc (10, 16), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 nine times, cut yarn.

Finishing instructions:

Sew back and front side seams together, sew shoulder seams together, sew buttons in place, work a sc row into the necklines and arm left and right openings. Weave in loose ends.

Make a skirt from a poplin cloth with matching dimensions, and sew it to the bust.

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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Coral Bubbly Waves Shawlette

Note: This pattern has been reviewed and updated on July 18, 2022.

Ombre colored yarns are very inspiring, and the gradual shades can add to a simple shawl, poncho or any other wrap up cloth a more elegant appearance. Since I am a wildlife lover, the sea coral ombre yarn from Redheart is the most suitable for a project that invites all to love nature and protect the wildlife on land and underwater.

Short rows technique based designs always intrigue me, but sometimes you come across one that may seem too complicated to make. They require patience and dedication (which I lack, haha...), especially when multiple skein colors are involved. 

Similar to previous projects I made, like the Dragon Tail Shawl and Dragon Fire Cowl, this design incorporates the short rows technique. This time though, as you will see, I will take things up a notch. I included tutorial photos and written instructions on how to make the design, and I tried to present them as simple as possible, so make sure you follow the instructions closely.

NOTE: the two versions of this design are made following the exact same instructions. The differences in size and measurements are only due to the use of different yarn weights and needle sizes (see materials section).

Overview:

• Skill level: Intermediate.
• Instructions style: Written pattern.
• Available Sizes: Shawlette (coral) and shawl (purple) (see detailed measurements below). 

Get the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern from my store:

• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Payhip

Or click here to jump to the instructions.

 

Want to pin this project for later? Just hover or click on any of the images in this post then click the red "save" button.

Materials:

• Coral (shawlette) version: 
• Yarn weight: 4/ medium/ aran.
• Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Ombre, 100% acrylic, 10 oz (283 g), 482 yards (440 m), in the color "Sea Coral" 3967 (1 skein).
• Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 9 (5.5 mm).
• Purple (shawl) version: 
• Yarn weight: 5/ bulky. 
• Yarn: Alize Superlana Midi Ombre Batik, 75% acrylic, 25% wool, 10.58 oz (300 g), 557 yards (510 m), in the color 7270 (1 skein).
• Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 11 (8 mm).
• Tapestry needle.
• Ring stitch markers.

Measurements: 

• Coral version: width = 57" (145 cm), height = 27.5" (70 cm), approx.
• Purple version: width = 65" (163 cm), height = 29.5" (75 cm), approx.

Yardage: 

• Coral version: 460 - 470 yards (420 - 430 m) approx.
• Purple version: 550 - 555 yards (503 - 507 m) approx.

Gauge: 

• Coral version: 14 sts and 26 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.
• Purple version: 12 sts and 23 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.

Knitting Terms 

• st: stitch.
• sts: stitches.
• sl st: slip stitch.
• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• yo: yarn over.
• ssk: slip, slip, then knit the 2 slipped sts together through back loops.
• m1L: make one stitch increase left wise.
• m1R: make one st increase right wise.
• rsm: ring stitch marker.

Instructions:

Cast on 3 sts, k one row, then work as follows:

Row 1: k 1, m1L, k 1, m1R, k 1. (5 sts)

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to end. (6 sts)

Repeat row 3 until you have 46 sts. In the last row, place a rsm after knitting 16 sts. Now you will start the first wave with the first 30 sts.

First "bubbles wave":

Row 1 (wright side): k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove the rsm, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 seven more times, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (65 sts)

Second wave: 

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, slip the rsm to right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (88 sts)

Third "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 1, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped sts back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (109 sts)

Fourth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, place rsm on right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (132 sts)

Fifth "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, k 1, remove rsm, k 3, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 3, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (153 sts)

Sixth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove st, k 5, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 nine more times. Remove rsm. (173 sts)

Last wave:

Row: k 2, m1L, k to end.

Work this row until the end of skein (I did twenty repeats), leaving enough yarn for the bind off row. (193 sts)

Stretchy bind off row: k 2, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together, *k 1, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together. Repeat from * to end. 

Weave in loose ends.

You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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Candle Light Shawl

Hello guys! If you have been following me for a while, then it must have become obvious to you that shawls are my main interest. knitted or crocheted, I just love making them. I know that knitting with bulky or chunky yarn is the field I excel in, but whenever I see shawls and wraps online, that are worked with fine yarn, looking transparent and having scalloped edges , I find myself so impressed and moved that I have to make one of my own. In this post I present to this delicate shawl that was inspired by this beautiful lace knitting unit, and made with an elegant yarn with metallic thread to add a touch of shimmer.  

Skill level: Intermediate

Materials:

• Yarn: Alize Sal Simli, 95% acrylic, 5% metal, 3.35 oz (100 g), 500 yards (460 m), in the color camel 95: 4 skeins.
• Circular knitting needles, size US 6 (4 mm), and US 8 (5 mm), 40" (100 cm) long.
• Stitch marker.
• Tapestry needle.

Measurements: width=96" (245 cm), height= 57" (145 cm), approx.

Yardage: 1600- 11650 yards (1450- 1500 m).

Gauge: 25 sts and 25 row = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm) in stockinette pattern.

Knitting terms:

• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• yo: yarn over.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops.
• s2s1ktog: slip two sts as if to knit them together, slip the third one knit-wise, knit the three sts together through back loops (centered double decrease). You can watch my tutorial video below to learn how to knit this stitch:

Instructions:

Note 1: the shawl's pattern is identical for both sides along the centerline, so always repeat what is written between {} for the other side.

Note 2: always put a stitch marker in the center stitch, to guide you while working the pattern, especially for the long rows.

Now, we'll start by casting on 3 sts using the US 6/ 4mm circular needles, knit them 6 rows, pick up and knit three sts on one side of the rows, pick up and knit three sts on bottom and knit all 9 sts once. You can learn more about this method here.

Row 1: k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 1 (center st), yo, k 1, yo, k 3. (13 sts)

Row 2 and all even number rows: k 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3. 

Row 3: k 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 1 (center st), yo, k 3, yo, k 3. (17 sts).

Row 5: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 7: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 9: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 11: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 13: k 3, {yo, k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 13: k 3, {yo, k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 15: k 3, {yo, k 2, k2togtbl, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, k 2, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 17: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl, k 1) twice, (k2tog, yo, k 1) twice, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 19: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 21: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo*, k 3, repeat between ** once, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 23: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, k 1*, repeat between ** once, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 25: k 3, {yo, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog*, repeat between ** once, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 27: k 3, {yo, k 1, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog*, repeat between ** once, k 2, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 29: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 1, *(yo, k2togtbl, k 1) twice, (k2tog, yo, k 1) twice*, repeat between ** once, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 31: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, *k 3, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k 1, k2tog, yo*, repeat between ** once, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

 

General Pattern:

Row 33: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, k 3*, repeat between ** to 9 sts before center st, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 35: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1*, repeat between ** to 11 sts before center st, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 37: k 3, {yo, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog*, repeat between ** to 1 st before center st, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 39: k 3, {yo, k 1, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog*, repeat between ** to 2 sts before center st, k 2, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 41: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, *(k 1, yo, k2togtbl) twice, (k 1, k2tog, yo) twice*, repeat between ** to 3 sts before center st, k 1, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 43: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, *k 3, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k 1, k2tog, yo*, repeat between ** to 5 sts before center st, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Repeat rows 33-43 twenty five times. 

Edging Pattern:

Change to size US 8 (5 mm) circular needles.

Row 1: repeat row 33.

Row 2 and all even number rows: k3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.

Row 3: repeat row 35.

Row 5: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, *k 5, yo, k2togtbl, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 9 sts before center st, k 5, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 7: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, *k 7, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 11 sts before center st, k 7, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 9: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, *k 3, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, repeat from * to last 7 sts before center st, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 11: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 2, *yo, k 2, k2togtbl, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 3 sts before center st, k 1, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 13: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 3, *yo, k 2, k2togtbl, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 4 sts before center st, k 2, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 15: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 4, *yo, k 4, s2s1ktog, k 4, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 5 sts before center st, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 17: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 5, *yo, k 4, s2s1ktog, k 4, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 6 sts before center st, k 4, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Bind off all sts in a stretchy loose method. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 

Cut yarn, weave in loose ends and block. 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram to see my upcoming projects @wiams_crafts.

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Dragonfly Toddler Dress

For me, one of the most beautiful articles of clothing you can make is the toddler dress; they always fascinate me whenever I browse different boards on Pinterest. I make one for fun every once in a while, though I am a bit hesitant to share them. That is because the dresses I like to make have two parts; a crocheted yoke, and a sewn skirt made out of cloth. Most people I have interacted with on the internet can crochet (or knit), but don’t necessarily have the skills for sewing.

Therefore, my design for a toddler dress in this post is a fully crocheted one. Nevertheless, in my next post I will share with you the original version I made, the one with the sewn skirt, for all of you out there who enjoy both crochet and sewing.

Level: intermediate

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Pink Magnolia Shawl

It is obvious at this point that I am a big shawl fan. Looking over all my previous shawl designs you can see that some are knitted, others are crocheted, some are mono or multi-colored, with the yarn weight used varying from chunky, bulky, and worsted to fine. What makes this shawl different is that it has two sets of patterns that swap along its length. Using a multi-colored yarn had a nice effect, and I am quite satisfied with the finished product. 

This shawl can be made using one color of yarn, and still look gorgeous I am sure. And as always, you are free to ask me anything if you have trouble following the instructions. I look forward to seeing your finished works!

Have nice crochet times!

Level: Easy

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Red Heart Cushion Cover

Hi Friends! It's March! and I love this month that brings the first signs of spring, especially after a very long winter.

My mind is swarming with ideas, but time cuts my work just like a sharp sword. I like the C2C technique and the pixelated drawings, and from time to time I make a project inspired by it.

And since I have boxes and boxes of scrap yarn in my rack (and on top of my wardrobe, basically, It taking over all the storage space in my house), I've designed and crocheted a cushion cover using some of these left-overs. I also came up with another version that can be worked as scarf ends, and another as a coaster.

Level: Easy

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