Coral Bubbly Waves Shawlette


Note: This pattern has been reviewed and updated on July 18, 2022.

Ombre colored yarns are very inspiring, and the gradual shades can add to a simple shawl, poncho or any other wrap up cloth a more elegant appearance. Since I am a wildlife lover, the sea coral ombre yarn from Redheart is the most suitable for a project that invites all to love nature and protect the wildlife on land and underwater.

Short rows technique based designs always intrigue me, but sometimes you come across one that may seem too complicated to make. They require patience and dedication (which I lack, haha...), especially when multiple skein colors are involved. 

Similar to previous projects I made, like the Dragon Tail Shawl and Dragon Fire Cowl, this design incorporates the short rows technique. This time though, as you will see, I will take things up a notch. I included tutorial photos and written instructions on how to make the design, and I tried to present them as simple as possible, so make sure you follow the instructions closely.

NOTE: the two versions of this design are made following the exact same instructions. The differences in size and measurements are only due to the use of different yarn weights and needle sizes (see materials section).



Overview:
  • Skill level: Intermediate.
  • Instructions style: Written pattern.
  • Available Sizes: Shawlette (coral) and shawl (purple) (see detailed measurements below). 

Get the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern from my store:

Or click here to jump to the instructions.

 

Want to pin this project for later? Just hover or click on any of the images in this post then click the red "save" button.



Materials:

  • Coral (shawlette) version: 
    • Yarn weight: 4/ medium/ aran.
    • Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Ombre, 100% acrylic, 10 oz (283 g), 482 yards (440 m), in the color "Sea Coral" 3967 (1 skein).
    • Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 9 (5.5 mm).
  • Purple (shawl) version: 
    • Yarn weight: 5/ bulky. 
    • Yarn: Alize Superlana Midi Ombre Batik, 75% acrylic, 25% wool, 10.58 oz (300 g), 557 yards (510 m), in the color 7270 (1 skein).
    • Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 11 (8 mm).
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Ring stitch markers.

Measurements: 

  • Coral version: width = 57" (145 cm), height = 27.5" (70 cm), approx.
  • Purple version: width = 65" (163 cm), height = 29.5" (75 cm), approx.

Yardage: 

  • Coral version: 460 - 470 yards (420 - 430 m) approx.
  • Purple version: 550 - 555 yards (503 - 507 m) approx.

Gauge: 

  • Coral version: 14 sts and 26 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.
  • Purple version: 12 sts and 23 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.


Knitting Terms 
  • st: stitch.
  • sts: stitches.
  • sl st: slip stitch.
  • k: knit.
  • p: purl.
  • yo: yarn over.
  • ssk: slip, slip, then knit the 2 slipped sts together through back loops.
  • m1L: make one stitch increase left wise.
  • m1R: make one st increase right wise.
  • rsm: ring stitch marker.


Instructions:

Cast on 3 sts, k one row, then work as follows:

Row 1: k 1, m1L, k 1, m1R, k 1. (5 sts)

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to end. (6 sts)

Repeat row 3 until you have 46 sts. In the last row, place a rsm after knitting 16 sts. Now you will start the first wave with the first 30 sts.

First "bubbles wave":

Row 1 (wright side): k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove the rsm, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 seven more times, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (65 sts)

Second wave: 

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, slip the rsm to right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (88 sts)

Third "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 1, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped sts back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (109 sts)

Fourth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, place rsm on right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (132 sts)

Fifth "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, k 1, remove rsm, k 3, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 3, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (153 sts)

Sixth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove st, k 5, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 nine more times. Remove rsm(173 sts)

Last wave:

Row: k 2, m1L, k to end.

Work this row until the end of skein (I did twenty repeats), leaving enough yarn for the bind off row. (193 sts)

Stretchy bind off row: k 2, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together, *k 1, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together. Repeat from * to end. 

Weave in loose ends.

You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 






Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

13 comments:

  1. I wish this pattern was available without all of the pictures....I don't want to print out 10 pages to get it....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Unknown
      I wish that too, but you know you won't like the design if you don't see the pictures.
      Here is a way to print the pattern only: copy the post and paste it on word pages, remove all the pictures and print.
      Have a nice day
      Wiam

      Delete
  2. Is it possible to make this garment on straight needles? I can't use circular needles and there seems to be less and less patterns for straight needle knitters these days which is sad and frustrating.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi JansJems,
    I am afraid it is not possible to make this shawl using straight needles; the number of stitches you can stack into straight needles is at most 100 - 150, and this shawl has very long rows, the longest reaching about 300 stitches. It would be extremely difficult stacking that many stitches and transferring them from needle to needle swiftly and easily. I advise you to give working with circular needles a shot. Believe me, they make knitting pieces like this shawl so much easier.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for replying. The reason I can't use circular needles is that I am one of those knitters who tucks the right needle under their arm. I just can't do it anyway other way lol :)

      Delete
  4. In this row of directions, you use the abbreviation "ss". First "bubbles wave":

    Row 1: k 2, m 1, p to sm ring, remove sm ring, ss, bring yarn to back under needle, insert sm ring through left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

    But I cannot figure out what you mean by "ss". Normally, I would think it would be stocking stitch, but apparently not!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Catlady
      SS is an abbreviation I've used for (slip stitch) but didn't add it to the knitting terms.
      It's been corrected.
      Thank you very much

      Have a nice day
      Wiam

      Delete
    2. Thank you :) Makes sense now!

      Delete
  5. Good morning! First off, thanks for offering up this free pattern! I have 3 colors (jade, copper, and a jade/copper mix) of some special yarn (50/50 wool/silk) that needs a project, and this shawl is going to be it. However, I'm knitting it in some "ordinary" yarn first, as practice. I have a suggestion for future short-row projects to help new(er) knitters like me: periodically let us know how many stitches there should be on the needle, or on one side or the other of the stitch marker. That will help us troubleshoot if things seem to have gone wrong. [I've come to the conclusion that (a) I can't count, and (b) Netflix and knitting is not a thing for me. :-) ]

    ReplyDelete
  6. I think Guy has a good suggestion. I was wondering, also, about this same idea concerning the number of stitches after each wave. Also, there are different ways to do M1. Which one should we use? Another thing I am unsure of is after the 1st wave where does the stitch marker need placed-with the row just knitted facing up or should I turn my knitting around for the next row before placing my marker?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Tinker! I will check the post again to make the instructions easier and clearer to follow. Have a nice day 😊.

      Delete
    2. Hi again! first I've added the number of the total sts after each wave, I've also added the (m1L) in the knitting term for how to make the increased st. About the ring st marker: you put it before the first wave as instructed, then its place will change accordingly until it is removed completely as mentioned before the last rows.
      I hope it is more clear now, and if you have any other questions, do tell me.
      Have a splendid weekend.

      Delete

Labels