Jelly Bubbles Hat

 

Hello Knitters! It's hard for me to believe that I have yet to knit a single hat this year, and we've reached the end of June! So when I noticed this, I rushed to finish a design that I had been working on for a while, then ended up making this hat in every color I had of this type of yarn, and in three different sizes. The main feature of this pattern is the simple twist that creates the bubble shapes. It is easy to knit if you read and follow the instructions carefully, or you can knit  it according to the chart I provided if you prefer that. If you like This design, you can start right now and knit this awesome and cool hat for yourself, or your beloved ones as gifts for the upcoming holiday seasons. Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts and have a nice knitting day!



Overview:

  • Skill levelIntermediate.
  • Instructions style: written pattern + video tutorials.
  • Sizes: this hat is available in two sizes, S, M/L, (see detailed measurements below). Bonus size (L/XL): to knit this size, follow the same instructions for the M/L sized hat, but change the size of the knitting needle to US 10 (6 mm).

Get the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern from my store:

Or click here to jump to the instructions.

Want to pin this project for later? Just hover or click on any of the images in this post then click the red "save" button.



Materials:

  • Yarn: Alize Burcum Klasik, 100% acrylic, 3.5 oz (100 g), 230 yards (210 m), in the following colors and quantities:
    • Size S (child size): 1 skein. 
    • Size M/L (adult size): 1 skein.
    • Size L/XL (adult size): 1 skein.
  • Circular knitting needles, 16" (40 cm) long, size US 7 (4.5 mm), US 9 (5.5 mm) and US 10 (6 mm) (for size L/XL only).
  • Double pointed needles (DPNs) set, size US 9 (5.5 mm) and US 10 (6 mm) (for size L/XL only).
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Ring stitch marker.


Sizes and measurements: 
  • Size S (child size)head circumference = 18- 19" (45- 48 cm), height = 7.5" (19 cm). 
  • Size M/L (adult size): head circumference = 22- 23" (56- 58.5 cm), height = 8" (20.5 cm).
  • Size L/XL (adult size): head circumference = 23- 24" (58.5 - 61 cm), height = 8.5" (21.5 cm).

Yardage: 

  • Size S (child size): 100- 105 yards (90- 95 m).
  • Size M/L (adult size): 130- 132 yards (120- 122 m), approx.
  • Size L/XL (adult size): 148- 150 yards (135- 137 m), approx.

Gauge: 17 sts and 22 rounds = 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stockinette stitch.





Knitting Terms:
  • st: stitch.
  • sts: stitches.
  • k: knit.
  • p: purl.
  • yo: yarn over.
  • k2tog: knit two stitches together.
  • ssk: slip, slip, then knit the two slipped stitches together through back loops.
  • k3tog: knit three stitches together.
  • sssk: slip, slip, slip, then knit the three slipped stitches together through back loops.


Instructions:

Note: to knit the size L/XL hat, follow the same instructions for the M/L sized hat, but change the size of the knitting needle to US 10 (6 mm) instead of US 9 (5.5 mm).

With size US 7 (4.5 mm) circular knitting needles, cast on 84 (98). Join in the round. Put a ring stitch marker at the beginning of rounds, purl one round, then work as follows:

Rib round: k 1, p 1, repeat to end.

Repeat the rib round (6) more times. Switch to size US 9 (5.5 mm) circular knitting needles while working the first round of the general pattern:

General pattern: 

Rounds 1 and 2: k to end.

Round 3: k 1, sssk, k3tog, k 7, repeat to end.

Round 4: k 1, switch next 2 sts putting the second st in front and keeping them on left needle, (k 1, yo, k 1) into each of these 2 sts, k 7, repeat to end.

Rounds 5 and 6: k to end.

Round 7: k 8, sssk, k3tog, repeat to end.

Round 8: k 8, switch next 2 sts putting the second st in front and keeping them on left needle, (k 1, yo, k 1) into each of these 2 sts, repeat to end.

Repeat the general pattern once (twice) more, then repeat rounds 1-7 once for Size S, and rounds 1-3 for Size M/L, then work as follows:

Decreasing Rounds for Size S:

Round 1: k 2, ssk, k2tog, k 2, switch next 2 sts putting the second st in front and keeping them on left needle, (k 1, yo, k 1) into each of these 2 sts, repeat to end. (72 sts)

Rounds 2 and 3: k to end.

Round 4: k 1, ssk, k2tog, k 7, repeat to end. (60 sts)

Rounds 5 and 6: k to end.

Round 7: ssk, k2tog, k 6, repeat to end. (48 sts)

Change to double pointed needles.

Round 8: k 2, sssk, k3tog, repeat to end.

Round 9: k 2, switch next 2 sts putting the second st in front and keeping them on left needle, (k 1, yo, k 1) into each of these 2 sts, repeat to end. 

Rounds 10 and 11: k to end.

Round 12: k 3, ssk, k2tog, k 1, repeat to end. (36 sts)

Round 13: k 2, ssk, k2tog, repeat to end. (24 sts)

Round 14: sl st, *ssk, k2togrepeat from * to last 3 sts, ssk, k the last st and the first slipped st of the same round together. (12 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a 6" (15 cm) long yarn tail, pull it through all sts and tighten together. Weave in loose ends.

Decreasing Rounds for Size M/L:

Round 1: k 1, switch next 2 sts putting the second st in front and keeping them on left needle, (k 1, yo, k 1) into each of these 2 sts, k 2, ssk, k2tog, k 1, repeat to end. (84 sts)

Rounds 2 and 3: k to end.

Round 4: k 8, ssk, k2tog, repeat to end. (70 sts)

Rounds 5 - 6:  k to end.

Round 7: sl st, *k 6, ssk, k2tog, repeat to last 10 sts, k 6, ssk, k the last st and the first slipped st of the same round together, then put the ring st marker at the end of the round. (56 sts)

Round 8: sssk, k3tog, k 2, repeat to end.

Change to double pointed needles.

Round 9: switch next 2 sts putting the second st in front and keeping them on left needle, (k 1, yo, k 1) into each of these 2 sts, k 2, repeat to end. (56 sts)

Rounds 10 and 11: k to end.

Round 12: k 1, ssk, k2tog, k 3, repeat to end. (42 sts)

Round 13: ssk, k2tog, k 2, repeat to end. (28 sts)

Round 14: sl st, *k2tog, ssk, repeat to last 3 sts, k2tog, k the last st and the first slipped st of the same round together through back loops. (14 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a 6" (15 cm) long yarn tail, pull it through all sts and tighten together. Weave in loose ends.



Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

Grapes Sherbet Shawlette

Hello my fellow knitters! My favorite shawls to knit are still symmetrical shawls, and it's quite obvious if you look at my ever-growing collection of them. Big, small, lacy, or made with bulky yarn, there's just something about knitting regular geometrical shapes that is so calming to the eyes and mind. This multicolored, lace-edged design is a simple and quick piece to make through and through. One technique that might be new to some is knitting five stitches together, which I am sure you'll master once you read the method and try it. It is mainly used in the edge of the shawlette where the pattern is composed of many yarn overs with five stitches knit together between each eyelet group, which results in a very beautiful wavy edges. As for the main body, it is just garter pattern for the most part, with increasing stitches done by twisting the yarn-overs in order not to create eyelets. If you don't want to bother with that, there is an easier alternative which is just making an ordinary stitch increase. I chose a woolly yarn that was left from a form my Tiny Waves Shawl, but you can pick up any other yarn that matches the gauge. I wish you a lovely time making this shawlette, that you can put on your shoulder and around your neck when out on cool nights.

Overview:

  • Skill level: Intermediate.
  • Instructions style: written pattern + chart.
  • Yarn weight: #4/ medium/ worsted.
  • Available sizes: one size (see detailed measurements below).
  • Size customization: you can make the size bigger by repeating the garter pattern more times than mentioned in the instructions, and get an increase of eight (or a multiple of eight) stitches on each side of the center stitch of the shawlette.

Get the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern from my store:

Or click here to jump to the instructions.

Want to pin this project for later? Just hover or click on any of the images in this post then click the red "save" button.

 


Materials:

  • Yarn: Daiso Air Blend, 46% acrylic, 37% polyester, 10% nylon, 7% wool, 1.05 oz (30 g), 109.36 yards (100 m), in the color Grapes "AR5": 3 skeins.
  • Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 10 (6 mm). 
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Ring stitch markers.

Measurements: width = 22" (56 cm), length = 46.5" (118 cm), approx.

Yardage: 312- 317 yards (285- 290 m), approx.

Gauge: 15 sts and 26 rows = 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.



 


Knitting Terms: 
  • st: stitch.
  • sts: stitches.
  • k: knit.
  • p: purl.
  • yo: yarn over.
  • m1L: make one stitch increase left-wise.
  • m1R: make one stitch increase right-wise.
  • k5togtbl: knit five stitches together through back loops. Or, slip stitch knit-wise four times, knit one stitch, then pass the four stitches over the knitted one.
  • rsm: ring stitch marker.


 

 





Instructions:

Cast on 3 sts, knit 7 rows, turn work 90 degrees clockwise, pick up 1 st out of each purl row side (3 sts in total), turn work 90 degrees clockwise again, pick up 3 sts from bottom. (9 sts)

You can also watch this video tutorial to learn how to do this type of cast on:

 

Knit one row. Put one rsm before and one after the middle st. This is the center st. Work garter pattern as follows:

Row 1 (right side): k 3, m1L, k to center st, m1R, k 1 (center st), m1R, k to last 3 sts, m1L, k 3. 

Row 2: k all sts. 

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 92 sts on each side of the center st and ending with row 1. 

Work the last rows pattern as follows: 

Last rows pattern:

Row 3: k 3, p to center st, k 1, p to last 3 sts, k 3.

Row 4: k 3, m1L, *(k 1, yo) twice, k5togtbl, yo, k 1, yo*, repeat between ** to one st before center st, k 1, m1R, k 1 (center st), m1L, repeat between ** to last four sts, k 1, m1R, k 3.

Row 5: repeat row three.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice, row 1 once, row 3 once, then work as follows:

Row 6: k 3, m1L, k 4, *(k 1, yo) twice, k5togtbl, yo, k 1, yo*, repeat between ** to five sts before center st, k 5, m1R, k 1 (center st), m1L, k 4, repeat between ** to last eight sts, k 5, m1R, k 3.

Repeat row 5 once, rows 1 and 2 twice, row 1 once, rows 3 to 5 once, then cast off all sts in a stretchy method. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 



Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

Watermelon Delights Shawl

Hello knitters! As the last days of spring are soon to pass and summer is fast approaching, it is high time for me to switch to some cotton and light yarn projects, and what’s better than a lacy and light shawl to wear over your tank top or swimsuit, or when it gets chilly at night. I will be the first to admit that knitting with fine yarn might be irking sometimes; you might get frustrated as the progress in knitting is slow, and you don’t get the same rapid sense of achievement and rejoice as when you work with bulkier yarn. However, the reward of holding the finished piece afterwards is so worth it. Even after many years of knitting, I always feel so proud and accomplished once I see my finished work worn and appreciated.

I had previously worked with Scheepjes yarn more than two years ago, when I made Wrap Me in Sunshine Shawl. Many of you have shown love for that project, to which I am eternally humbled and grateful, however I didn't have plans to buy more (see rant about fine yarn above). But since I received it as a gift (again!), I decided to use it, making a simpler design this time. It is an asymmetrical shawl that starts with flowing lines, appearing once you’ve repeated the general pattern several times, followed by a stripe of eyelets along the wider side, and that is it. It's a beautiful and elegant one-cake shawl, and I hope you find it interesting and make one for yourselves this summer. 

Overview:

  • Skill level: Intermediate.
  • Instructions style: written pattern.
  • Yarn weight: #1/super fine/Fingering.
  • Available sizes: one size (see detailed measurements below).

Get the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern from my store:

Or click here to jump to the instructions.

Want to pin this project for later? Just hover or click on any of the images in this post then click the red "save" button.





Materials:

  • Yarn: Scheepjes Whirl, 60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 7.6-7.9 oz (215-225 g), 1094 yards (1000 m), in the color Watermelon Hell Raiser (784): 1 cake.
  • Circular knitting needles 32" (80 cm) long, size US 5 (3.75 mm).
  • Tapestry needle.

Measurements: length = 52" (135 cm), width = 37" (94 cm), approx.

Yardage: 1060- 1070 yards (970- 980 meters) approx.

Gauge: 22 sts and 35 rows = 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stockinette stitch and US 5 (3.75 mm) needles (blocked).





Knitting Terms 
  • st: stitch.
  • sts: stitches.
  • sl st: slip stitch purl-wise.
  • k: knit.
  • p: purl.
  • yo: yarn over.
  • yot: yarn over twice.
  • k2tog: knit two stitches together.
  • ssk: slip, slip, knit the two stitches together through back loops.
  • p2togtbl: purl two stitches together through back loops.




Instructions:

With US 5 (3.75 mm) circular knitting needles, cast on 9 sts.

Row 1: p to end.

Row 2: k 2, p to end.

Row 3: sl st, k 1, yot, k 5, yo, k 2.

Row 4: k 2, p 1, yo, p 3, p2togtbl, (k 1, p 1) into the yot, sl st, p 1.

Row 5: sl st, k 1, yo, p 2, ssk, k 2, yo, k 4.

Row 6: k 2, p 3, yo, p 1, p2togtbl, k 2, p 1, sl st, p 1.

Row 7: sl st, k 1, yo, k 1, p 2, ssk, yo, k 6.

Row 8: k 2, p 6, k 2, p 2, sl st, p 1.

Row 9: sl st, k 1, yo, k 2, p 2, ssk, k 4, yo, k 2.

Row 10: k 2, p 1, yo, p 3, p2togtbl, k 2, p 3, sl st, p 1.

Row 11: sl st, k 1, yo, k 3, p 2, ssk, k 2, yo, k 4.

Row 12: k 2, p 3, yo, p 1, p2togtbl, k 2, p 4, sl st, p 1.

Row 13: sl st, k 1, yo, k 4, p 2, ssk, yo, k 6.

Row 14: k 2, p 6, k 2, p 5, sl st, p 1.

Row 15: sl st, k 1, yot, k 5, yo, p 2, ssk, k 4, yo, k 2.

Row 16: (k 2, p 1, yo, p 3, p2togtbl) twice(k 1, p 1) into the yot, sl st, p 1.

Row 17: sl st, k 1, yo, (p 2, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2) twice, k 2.

Row 18: k 2, (p 3, yo, p 1, p2togtbl, k 2) twice, p 1, sl st, p 1.

Row 19: sl st, k 1, yo, k 1, (p 2, ssk, yo, k 4) twice, k 2.

Row 20: k 2, (p 6, k 2) twice, p 2, sl st, p 1.

Row 21: sl st, k 1, yo, k 2, (p 2, ssk, k 4, yo) twice, k 2.

Row 22: k 2, (p 1, yo, p 3, p2togtbl, k 2) twice, p 3, sl st, p 1.

Row 23: sl st, k 1, yo, k 3, (p 2, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2) twice, k 2.

Row 24: k 2, (p 3, yo, p 1, p2togtbl, k 2) twice, p 4, sl st, p 1.

Row 25: sl st, k 1, yo, k 4, (p 2, ssk, yo, k 4) twice, k 2.

Row 26: k 2, (p 6, k 2) twice, p 5, sl st, p 1.

General pattern:

Row 27: sl st, k 1, yot, k 5, yo, *p 2, ssk, k 4, yo, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 28: k 2, *p 1, yo, p 3, p2togtbl, k 2, repeat from * to last 6 sts before the yot, p 1, yo, p 3, p2togtbl, (k 1, p 1) into the yot, sl st, p 1.

Row 29: sl st, k 1, yo, *p 2, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 30: k 2, *p 3, yo, p 1, p2togtbl, k 2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p 1, sl st, p 1.

Row 31: sl st, k 1, yo, k 1, *p 2, ssk, yo, k 4, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 32: k 2, *p 6, k 2, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p 2, sl st, p 1.

Row 33: sl st, k 1, yo, k 2, *p 2, ssk, k 4, yo, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 34: k 2, *p 1, yo, p 3, p2togtbl, k 2, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p 3, sl st, p 1.

Row 35: sl st, k 1, yo, k 3, *p 2, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 36: k 2, *p 3, yo, p 1, p2togtbl, k 2, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p 4, sl st, p 1.

Row 37: sl st, k 1, yo, k 4, *p 2, ssk, yo, k 4, repeat to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 38: k 2, *p 6, k 2, repeat from * to last 7 sts, p 5, sl st, p 1.

Repeat the general pattern (rows 27-38) thirty-one more times, then repeat rows 27-32 once. Work the last rows as follows:

Last Rows:

Row 1 and 3: sl st, k 1, yo, p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 2 and 4: k 2, p to last 2 sts, sl st, p 1.

Row 5: sl st, k 1, yo, *k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 6 and 8: k to last 3 sts, p 1, sl st, p 1.

Row 7 and 9: sl st, k 1, yo, k to end.

Bind off all sts in a stretchy method. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 

Weave in loose ends and block well. 






Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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