Coral Bubbly Waves Shawlette

Note: This pattern has been reviewed and updated on July 18, 2022.

Ombre colored yarns are very inspiring, and the gradual shades can add to a simple shawl, poncho or any other wrap up cloth a more elegant appearance. Since I am a wildlife lover, the sea coral ombre yarn from Redheart is the most suitable for a project that invites all to love nature and protect the wildlife on land and underwater.

Short rows technique based designs always intrigue me, but sometimes you come across one that may seem too complicated to make. They require patience and dedication (which I lack, haha...), especially when multiple skein colors are involved. 

Similar to previous projects I made, like the Dragon Tail Shawl and Dragon Fire Cowl, this design incorporates the short rows technique. This time though, as you will see, I will take things up a notch. I included tutorial photos and written instructions on how to make the design, and I tried to present them as simple as possible, so make sure you follow the instructions closely.

NOTE: the two versions of this design are made following the exact same instructions. The differences in size and measurements are only due to the use of different yarn weights and needle sizes (see materials section).

Overview:

• Skill level: Intermediate.
• Instructions style: Written pattern.
• Available Sizes: Shawlette (coral) and shawl (purple) (see detailed measurements below). 

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Materials:

• Coral (shawlette) version: 
• Yarn weight: 4/ medium/ aran.
• Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Ombre, 100% acrylic, 10 oz (283 g), 482 yards (440 m), in the color "Sea Coral" 3967 (1 skein).
• Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 9 (5.5 mm).
• Purple (shawl) version: 
• Yarn weight: 5/ bulky. 
• Yarn: Alize Superlana Midi Ombre Batik, 75% acrylic, 25% wool, 10.58 oz (300 g), 557 yards (510 m), in the color 7270 (1 skein).
• Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 11 (8 mm).
• Tapestry needle.
• Ring stitch markers.

Measurements: 

• Coral version: width = 57" (145 cm), height = 27.5" (70 cm), approx.
• Purple version: width = 65" (163 cm), height = 29.5" (75 cm), approx.

Yardage: 

• Coral version: 460 - 470 yards (420 - 430 m) approx.
• Purple version: 550 - 555 yards (503 - 507 m) approx.

Gauge: 

• Coral version: 14 sts and 26 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.
• Purple version: 12 sts and 23 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.

Knitting Terms 

• st: stitch.
• sts: stitches.
• sl st: slip stitch.
• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• yo: yarn over.
• ssk: slip, slip, then knit the 2 slipped sts together through back loops.
• m1L: make one stitch increase left wise.
• m1R: make one st increase right wise.
• rsm: ring stitch marker.

Instructions:

Cast on 3 sts, k one row, then work as follows:

Row 1: k 1, m1L, k 1, m1R, k 1. (5 sts)

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to end. (6 sts)

Repeat row 3 until you have 46 sts. In the last row, place a rsm after knitting 16 sts. Now you will start the first wave with the first 30 sts.

First "bubbles wave":

Row 1 (wright side): k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove the rsm, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 seven more times, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (65 sts)

Second wave: 

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, slip the rsm to right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (88 sts)

Third "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 1, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped sts back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (109 sts)

Fourth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, place rsm on right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (132 sts)

Fifth "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, k 1, remove rsm, k 3, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 3, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (153 sts)

Sixth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove st, k 5, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 nine more times. Remove rsm. (173 sts)

Last wave:

Row: k 2, m1L, k to end.

Work this row until the end of skein (I did twenty repeats), leaving enough yarn for the bind off row. (193 sts)

Stretchy bind off row: k 2, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together, *k 1, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together. Repeat from * to end. 

Weave in loose ends.

You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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Candle Light Shawl

Hello guys! If you have been following me for a while, then it must have become obvious to you that shawls are my main interest. knitted or crocheted, I just love making them. I know that knitting with bulky or chunky yarn is the field I excel in, but whenever I see shawls and wraps online, that are worked with fine yarn, looking transparent and having scalloped edges , I find myself so impressed and moved that I have to make one of my own. In this post I present to this delicate shawl that was inspired by this beautiful lace knitting unit, and made with an elegant yarn with metallic thread to add a touch of shimmer.  

Skill level: Intermediate

Materials:

• Yarn: Alize Sal Simli, 95% acrylic, 5% metal, 3.35 oz (100 g), 500 yards (460 m), in the color camel 95: 4 skeins.
• Circular knitting needles, size US 6 (4 mm), and US 8 (5 mm), 40" (100 cm) long.
• Stitch marker.
• Tapestry needle.

Measurements: width=96" (245 cm), height= 57" (145 cm), approx.

Yardage: 1600- 11650 yards (1450- 1500 m).

Gauge: 25 sts and 25 row = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm) in stockinette pattern.

Knitting terms:

• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• yo: yarn over.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops.
• s2s1ktog: slip two sts as if to knit them together, slip the third one knit-wise, knit the three sts together through back loops (centered double decrease). You can watch my tutorial video below to learn how to knit this stitch:

Instructions:

Note 1: the shawl's pattern is identical for both sides along the centerline, so always repeat what is written between {} for the other side.

Note 2: always put a stitch marker in the center stitch, to guide you while working the pattern, especially for the long rows.

Now, we'll start by casting on 3 sts using the US 6/ 4mm circular needles, knit them 6 rows, pick up and knit three sts on one side of the rows, pick up and knit three sts on bottom and knit all 9 sts once. You can learn more about this method here.

Row 1: k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 1 (center st), yo, k 1, yo, k 3. (13 sts)

Row 2 and all even number rows: k 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3. 

Row 3: k 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 1 (center st), yo, k 3, yo, k 3. (17 sts).

Row 5: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 7: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 9: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 11: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 13: k 3, {yo, k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 13: k 3, {yo, k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 15: k 3, {yo, k 2, k2togtbl, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, k 2, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 17: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl, k 1) twice, (k2tog, yo, k 1) twice, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 19: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 21: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo*, k 3, repeat between ** once, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 23: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, k 1*, repeat between ** once, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 25: k 3, {yo, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog*, repeat between ** once, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 27: k 3, {yo, k 1, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog*, repeat between ** once, k 2, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 29: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 1, *(yo, k2togtbl, k 1) twice, (k2tog, yo, k 1) twice*, repeat between ** once, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 31: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, *k 3, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k 1, k2tog, yo*, repeat between ** once, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

 

General Pattern:

Row 33: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, k 3*, repeat between ** to 9 sts before center st, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 1, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 35: k 3, {yo, *(k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1*, repeat between ** to 11 sts before center st, (k2tog, yo) twice, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 37: k 3, {yo, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, k2tog*, repeat between ** to 1 st before center st, k 1, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 39: k 3, {yo, k 1, *k 1, k2togtbl, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog*, repeat between ** to 2 sts before center st, k 2, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 41: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, *(k 1, yo, k2togtbl) twice, (k 1, k2tog, yo) twice*, repeat between ** to 3 sts before center st, k 1, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 43: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, *k 3, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k 1, k2tog, yo*, repeat between ** to 5 sts before center st, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Repeat rows 33-43 twenty five times. 

Edging Pattern:

Change to size US 8 (5 mm) circular needles.

Row 1: repeat row 33.

Row 2 and all even number rows: k3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.

Row 3: repeat row 35.

Row 5: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, *k 5, yo, k2togtbl, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 9 sts before center st, k 5, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 7: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, *k 7, yo, k2togtbl, k 1, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to last 11 sts before center st, k 7, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 9: k 3, {yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, *k 3, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, repeat from * to last 7 sts before center st, k 3, (yo, k2togtbl) twice, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 11: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 2, *yo, k 2, k2togtbl, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 3 sts before center st, k 1, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Row 13: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 3, *yo, k 2, k2togtbl, yo, s2s1ktog, yo, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 4 sts before center st, k 2, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 15: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 4, *yo, k 4, s2s1ktog, k 4, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 5 sts before center st, k 3, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3. 

Row 17: k 3, {yo, k2tog, yo, k 5, *yo, k 4, s2s1ktog, k 4, yo, k 1, repeat from * to last 6 sts before center st, k 4, yo, k2togtbl, yo}, k 1 (center st), repeat between {} once, k 3.

Bind off all sts in a stretchy loose method. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 

Cut yarn, weave in loose ends and block. 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram to see my upcoming projects @wiams_crafts.

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Dragonfly Toddler Dress

For me, one of the most beautiful articles of clothing you can make is the toddler dress; they always fascinate me whenever I browse different boards on Pinterest. I make one for fun every once in a while, though I am a bit hesitant to share them. That is because the dresses I like to make have two parts; a crocheted yoke, and a sewn skirt made out of cloth. Most people I have interacted with on the internet can crochet (or knit), but don’t necessarily have the skills for sewing.

Therefore, my design for a toddler dress in this post is a fully crocheted one. Nevertheless, in my next post I will share with you the original version I made, the one with the sewn skirt, for all of you out there who enjoy both crochet and sewing.

Level: intermediate

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Pink Magnolia Shawl

It is obvious at this point that I am a big shawl fan. Looking over all my previous shawl designs you can see that some are knitted, others are crocheted, some are mono or multi-colored, with the yarn weight used varying from chunky, bulky, and worsted to fine. What makes this shawl different is that it has two sets of patterns that swap along its length. Using a multi-colored yarn had a nice effect, and I am quite satisfied with the finished product. 

This shawl can be made using one color of yarn, and still look gorgeous I am sure. And as always, you are free to ask me anything if you have trouble following the instructions. I look forward to seeing your finished works!

Have nice crochet times!

Level: Easy

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Red Heart Cushion Cover

Hi Friends! It's March! and I love this month that brings the first signs of spring, especially after a very long winter.

My mind is swarming with ideas, but time cuts my work just like a sharp sword. I like the C2C technique and the pixelated drawings, and from time to time I make a project inspired by it.

And since I have boxes and boxes of scrap yarn in my rack (and on top of my wardrobe, basically, It taking over all the storage space in my house), I've designed and crocheted a cushion cover using some of these left-overs. I also came up with another version that can be worked as scarf ends, and another as a coaster.

Level: Easy

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Sunny Colors Poncho

A good day I wish to you wherever you are, friends! :)

It's spring, the sun is shining, the green grass covers the terrain in front of my home and trees are blooming all around. This inspired me to make this design, a poncho that has all spring colors; green, blue, yellow and white of course, to wear whenever it feels chilly be it day or night.

It's simple and could be knitted to fit any figure. Have a nice knitting day!

Level: Easy

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Lace Hearts Tweed Shawl

Hi every! in march, where I live, we celebrate many events; teachers day, woman day, mother's and spring days, so my first project will be a shawl that has the lace motif heart pattern, which shows my love and appreciation to every one. I hope you all have the same feelings and share happiness with your beloved ones.

Update (March 2024): it's a nice coincident that I've posted this shawl in march many years ago, and now I'm updating it, correcting many mistakes and adding a shorter version as requested by a nice lady. It's a nice and simple shawl that doesn't require you to know but a few easy knitting stitches, and at the same time, delivering a very beautiful outcome. Now, you can make it shorter while keeping the same look. I've also simplified the instructions and made them clear and easier to follow, so give it a try and enjoy making it and wear it or gift it this spring!

Skill level: Intermediate

Materials:

• Alize, superlana, Midi Mosaic: 3.53 oz (100 g), 186 yards (170 m), 75% acrylic, 25% wool, in the color (5506): 6 balls.
•  Circular knitting needles, size US 11 (8 mm), 40" (100 cm) long.
• Tapestry needle.
• stitch markers.

Yardage:

• Short version: 935 - 935 yards (855 - 890 m), approx.
• Original version: 1035 - 1095 yards (950 -1000 m), approx.

Measurements: 

• Short version: 70" (179 cm) long, 36" (91 cm) wide, approx.
• Original version: 77" (195 cm) long, 41" (105 cm) wide, approx.

Gauge: 12 sts and 17 rows = 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in Stockinette pattern.

Knitting terms:

• st: stitch.
• sts: stitches.
• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• yo: yarn over.
• yot: yarn over twice.
• k2tog: knit two stitches together.
• ssk: slip, slip, knit the two stitches together through back loops.

Instructions:

Note: If you prefer to make it shorter, follow the instructions for smaller version.

Cast on 3 sts, knit 7 (9) sts  rows, turn work 90 degrees clockwise, pick up 1 st out of each purl row side [7 (9) sts in total], turn work 90 degrees clockwise again, pick up 3 sts from bottom. [9 (11) sts]

You can also watch this video tutorial to learn how to do this type of cast on:

Row 1: k 3, yo, k 2, yo, k 1 (this is the center st, put stitch markers before and after it), yo, k 2, yo, k 3. [13 (15) sts]

Row 2: k 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.

Row 3: k 3, yo, k to center st, yo, k 1, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 till you have 185 (239) sts and ending with row 4.

The Lace Hearts pattern 

(First row of hearts):

Row 1: k 3, yo, [*k 9 k2tog, yot, ssk, k 8, k2tog, yot, ssk, k 2, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 8, (yo, k 1) twice, repeat between [] once, k 7, yo, k 3.

Note: in every even number row (p 1, k 1) into each yot. 

Row 2: k 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3, (don't forget the note above).

Row 3: k 3, yo, k 1, [* k 7, (k2tog, yot, ssk) twice, k 4, (k2tog, yot, ssk) twice, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 9, yo, k 1, yo, k 2, repeat between [] once, k 8, yo, k 3.

Row 5: k 3, yo, k 4, [* k 3, (k2tog, yot, ssk) six times, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 8, yo, k 1, yo, k 5, repeat between [] once, k 7, yo, k 3.

Row 7: k 3, yo, k 3, [* k 7, (k2tog, yot, ssk) five times, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 11, yo, k 1, yo, k 4, repeat between [] once, k 10, yo, k 3.

Row 9: k 3, yo, k 6, [* k 3, (k2tog, yot, ssk) six times, k 3, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 10, yo, k 1, yo, k 7, repeat between [] once, k 9, yo, k 3. 

Row 11: k 3, yo, k 5, [* k 7, (k2tog, yot, ssk) five times, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 13, yo, k 1, yo, k 6, repeat between [] once, k 12, yo, k 3.

Row 13: k 3, yo, k 4, [* k 11, (k2tog, yot, ssk) four times, repeat from * two (three) more times] k 16, yo, k 1, k 5, repeat between [] once, k 15, yo, k 3.

Row 15: k 3, yo, k 3, [* k 15, (k2tog, yot, ssk) three times, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 19, yo, k 1, yo, k 4, repeat between [] once, k 18, yo, k 3.

Row 17: k 3, yo, k 2, [* k 19, (k2tog, yot, ssk) twice, repeat from * two (three) more times], k 22, yo, k 1,  yo, k 3, repeat between [] once, k 21, yo, k 3.

Row 19: k 3, yo, k 1, [* k 23, k2tog, yot, ssk, repeat from * two (three) more times],  k 25, yo, k 1, k 2, repeat between [] once, k 24, yo, k 3.

Row 20: k 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3. [225 (279) sts] 

Second row of hearts:

Row 21: k 3, yo, [*k 6, k2tog, yot, ssk, k 8, k2tog, yot, ssk, k 5, repeat from * three (four) more times], (k 1, yo) twice, repeat between [] once, k 1, yo, k 3.

Row 23: k 3, yo, [*k 5, (k2tog, yot, ssk) twice, k 4, (k2tog, yot, ssk) twice, k 2, repeat from * three (four) more times], k 3, yo, k 1, yo, repeat between [] once, k 3, yo, k 3.

Row 25: k 3, yo, k 1, [*k 3, (k2tog, yot, ssk) six times, repeat from * three (four) more times, k 4, (yo, k 1) twice, repeat between [] once, k 4, yo, k 3.

Row 27: k 3, yo, k 7, [*(k2tog, yot, ssk) five times, k 7,  repeat from * three (four) more times], yo, k 1,  yo, k 7, repeat between [] once, yo, k 3.

Row 29: k 3, yo, k 6, [*(k2tog, yot, ssk) six times, k 3, repeat from * three (four) more times], k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 6, repeat between [] once, k 3, yo, k 3. 

Row 31: k 3, yo, k 9, [*(k2tog, yot, ssk) five times, k 7, repeat from * three (four) more times], k 2, yo, k 1, yo, k 9, repeat between [] once, k 2, yo, k 3.

Row 33: k 3, yo, k 12, [*(k2tog, yot, ssk) four times, k 11, repeat from * three (four) more times], (k 1, yo) twice, k 12, repeat between [] once, k 1, yo, k 3.

Row 35: k 3, yo, k 15, [*(k2tog, yot, ssk) three times, k 15, repeat from * three (four) more times], yo, k 1, yo, k 15, repeat between [] once, yo, k 3.

Row 37: k 3, yo, k 17, [*k 1, (k2tog, yot, ssk) twice, k 18, repeat from * three (four) more times], yo, k 1, yo, k 17, repeat between [] once, yo, k 3.

Row 38: k 5, [*k 15, p 3 , (p 1, k 1) into yot, p 2, (p 1, k 1) into yot, p 3, repeat from * three (four) more times], k 20, repeat between [] once, k 20.

Row 39: k 3, yo, k 19, [k 2,*k2tog, yot, ssk, k 21, repeat from * three (four) more times], yo, k 1, yo, k 19, repeat between [] once, yo, k 3.

Row 40: k 4, [k 19, p 3, (p 1, k 1) into yot, p 3, repeat from * three (four) more times], k 22, repeat between [] once, k 23.

Row 41: k all sts.

 

Bind off all sts in a stretchy method. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 

 

Weave in loose ends, block and enjoy wearing the shawl.

 

 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

 

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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Ombre Poncho

Hello and welcome to my first post of the new year! This project has been a long time coming, I started working on this poncho back in fall, but, as usual, I got busy with other stuff, fall turned into winter, and now spring is at the door. Nevertheless, here it is, a poncho the color of autumn leaves. If you choose to, you can work it using any ombre color gradient, or even any other bulky color combo yarn you like. I hope you enjoy making it. Have cozy knitting days!

Skill level: Intermediate

GET printable PDF for this pattern here.

This post was featured in Favecrafts' list of the top 100 crochet patterns of 2019. Click the image below to view the full list:

Materials:

• Yarn: Alize Superlana Maxi Long Batik, %75 acrylic, %25 wool, 8.82 oz (250 g), 273 yards (250 m), in the color 6771: 2 skeins. 
• Circular knitting needles, size US 15 (10 mm), 40" (100 cm) long. 
• Tapestry needle 
• Stitch marker 
• Stitches holders 

Yardage: 490 - 520 yards (450 - 475 m).

Gauge: 9.5 sts and 13 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stockinette stitch.

Measurements: center back down: 25.5" (65 cm), side shoulder to end: 20.5" (52 cm). See image below:

knitting terms:

• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• yo: yarn over.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops.
• m1: make one stitch increase.
• kyokrb (porthole eyelet): (k 1, yarn over, k 1) into the same stitch in the row below. For more on how to Knit this, you can watch this tutorial video I made: 

Instructions:

Note 1: the two balls of yarn I've used have the same color gradient, so the back and front pieces are almost identical.

Note 2: when reaching last row in the back and front pieces, you can either cast off all stitches and sew the shoulders together, or if you are familiar with the Kitchener stitch, use it to attach the back and front at the shoulders' last rows.

Poncho Back Part:

Cast on 3 sts:

Row 1: k

Row 2: k 1, m 1, k 1, m 1, k 1. (5 sts)

Row 3: k

Row 4: k 1, m 1, k 3, m 1, k 1. (7 sts)

Row 5: k.

Row 6: k 1, m1, k 5, m1, k 1. (9 sts)

Row 7: k 4, p 1, k 4.

Row 8: k 4, kyokrb, k 4.

Row 9: k 4, p to last 4 sts, k 4.

Row 10: k to center st, kyokrb, k to end.

Repeat rows 9 and 10 until the sts count 53.

Middle Triangle:

With wrong side work as follows, (from now always mark center stitch):

Row 1: k 4, p 22, k 1, p 22, k 4.

Row 2: k 26, yo, k 1, yo, k 26.

Row 3: k 4, p 22, k 3, p 22, k 4.

Row 4: k 26, yo, k 3, yo, k 26.

Row 5: k 4, p 22, k 5, p 22, k 4.

Row 6: k 26, yo, k 5, yo, k 26.

Side Increases:

Row 7: k 4, p 22, k 7, p 22, k 4, cast on 20 sts at the end of row.

Row 8: k 46, yo, k 7, yo, k 26, cast on 20 sts at the end of this row.

Row 9: k 24, p 22, k 9, p 22, k 24.

Row 10: k 46, yo, k 9, yo, k 46.

Row 11: k 24, p 22, k 11, p 22, k 24.

Row 12: k 46, yo, k 11, yo, k 46.

Row 13: k 24, p 22, k 13, p 22, k 24

Row 14: k 46, yo, k 13, yo, k 46.

Row 15: k 4, p 42, k 15, p 42, k 4.

Row 16: k 46, yo, k 15, yo, k 46.

Work on these two increasing rows until the triangle in the middle stitches count 41 and ending a wrong side row.

Neck Edge Right Shoulder Side:

Row 1: k 46, yo, k 20, cast off 17 sts, k 4, yo, k 46.

Row 2: k 4, p 42, k 5.

Cast off all stitches leaving ( or keep sts in a st holder, cut yarn leave 3 yrd tail yarn).

Left Shoulder Seam:

Insert yarn in the center back stitch (that has been decreased when working the left side) to retain the stitch:

Row 1: cast off 17 sts, k 4, yo, p 42, k 4.

Row 2: k 46, k 5.

Cast off all stitches leaving 1 yard of yarn for sewing ( or keep stitches in stitches holder, and cut yarn leaving 3 yard tail).

Poncho Front Part:

Work like back until you finish row 14 after side increases.

Now work to shape the V neck opening: 

V Neck Opening:

Work on as follows starting with the wrong side row:

Row 1: k 4, p 42, k 15, p 42, k 4.(row 15 in back instructions)

Note: Mark the center st, in the middle of the center k 15.

Row 2: k 46, yo, k2tog, k 5 (front right side), cast off next 3 sts (the first one is the center middle st), k 3, k2togtbl, yo, k 46 (front left side).

Front Left Side:

With wrong side row, work as follows:

Row 3: k 4, p 42, k 5.

Row 4: k 3, k2togtbl, yo, k 46.

Row 5: repeat row 3.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 fourteen times, cast off all stitches ( or, put stitches in a stitch holder).

Front Right Side:

Insert the knitting needle in the center front stitch (that has been cast off when working the left side) to retain the stitch:

Row 1: cast off 3 sts, k 5, p 42, k 4.

Row 2: k 46, yo, k2tog, k 3, turn.

Row 3: k 5, p 42, k 4.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen times, cast off all stitches (or put stitches in a stitch holder).

Attaching shoulder seams:

Sew left and back shoulder seams of back and front parts together using any sewing method you prefer, weave in loose ends.

Or, if you are familiar with Kitchener stitch, attach left and right shoulders of back and front parts together using this method, weave in loose ends.

 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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Lime-O-nade Shawl

Hello friends! another year is about to wrap up. I had my ups and downs, but some of the best moments I've had were definitely the ones spent making crafts. This is the last post for 2018, made with love and yarn that is 20% wool, very suitable for the winter, and it has some twists in its design; it's not the traditional triangle-shape, and it has a unique color combination. I am hoping 2019 will bring with it new Ideas, new yarn, more posts and more joyful times that alleviate the stress during bad days. I wish you all the same. Happy new year to you all! 

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