Hello
everyone! Filet crochet is a very easy technique once you get the hang of it.
It's quite similar to cross stitch embroidery. You can choose any pixel art
shape and turn it into a crochet chart with a few simple steps. I've explained all
of this to the best of my ability in a video posted on my YouTube channel (see below).
I decided to make a step-by-step tutorial for this technique after most of the
comment I received on one of my earlier designs, my RoseRelief Shawl, were questions about how to follow the chart or how to do filet
crochet. Now, I finally have the means to explain it using this post. This
top is very easy to make once you grasp the basics of the filet crochet
technique. It’s made up of four pieces: the back and front, joined by two
stripes that make up the sides. I am absolutely pleased with the way this top
turned out, and how very nice and unique it looks. I hope you try it out yourselves.
Stay safe and healthy!
Skill level: Intermediate
Materials:
Yarn: Alize Diva Silky Effect, 100% microfiber acrylic, 3.53 oz. (100 g), 383 yards (350 m), in the color cream 01 (2 skeins), dark green 131 (2 skeins) and orange 83 (1 skein).
Crochet hook, size US D (3 mm).
Tapestry needle.
Measurements:
Size
Chest circumference
S
33.5-35.5" (85-90 cm)
M
37.5-40" (95-100 cm)
L
42-44" (105-110 cm)
Yardage:
Size S: 1200- 1220 yards (1100- 1120 m) approx.
Size M: 1315 - 1335 yards (1200 - 1220 m) approx.
Size L: 1420- 1445 yards (1300 - 1320 m) approx.
Gauge:30 sts and 16 rows = 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in double crochet stitch.
Crochet terms (US):
ch: chain.
sc: single stitch.
dc: double crochet.
picot: ch 3, slip stitch into the first ch.
Note: this pattern follows the filet crochet technique. You can learn more about it by watching this video:
Instructions:
Back:
With cream yarn, make 144 (160, 176) chains, work as follows:
Row 1: dc in the seventh ch from hook, *skip ch, ch 1, dc in ch, repeat from * to end, turn.
Row 2: ch 4, dc in dc, *skip ch, ch 1, dc in dc, repeat from * to end, turn.
With dark green yarn, repeat row 2 sixteen times, cut dark green yarn.
With orange yarn, repeat row 2 twenty six times, cut orange yarn.
With dark green yarn, repeat row 2 sixteen times, cut dark green yarn.
With cream yarn, repeat row 2 fifteen (sixteen, seventeen) times, cut dark green yarn.
Front:
Work the front like you worked the back until the last upper dark green row. At the same time, work the filet crochet pattern as the chart shows. Watch the tutorial video on the filet crochet technique above.
Upper cream yarn stripe:
Repeat row 2 six (six, eight) times.
Neck line shaping:
Work as follows:
Right shoulder
Row 3: ch 4, dc in dc, *skip ch, ch 1, dc in dc, repeat from * 20 times, turn.
Repeat row 3 seven (nine, nine) more times. Cut yarn, leaving a 12" (30 cm) yarn tail to sew the shoulder seem.
Left shoulder
Work the same as the right side.
Side stripes (make 2):
With cream yarn, make 16 (18, 20) chs, work as follows;
Row 1: sc in the second ch, sc in every ch, turn. 15 (17, 19) scs
Skip the first column of the back and the front and sew the side stripe along the edge between the first two columns. Sew side stripes to both the back and the front, starting from the upper most orange row, then all the way down (see image below).
Side edging:
Weave in loose ends and work edge pattern as follows:
Edge row: with cream yarn sc into the corner of the first square on the bottom right, *skip first square side, (dc 3, picot 1, dc 3) into next square, skip next square side, sc into st between squares, repeat from * along the sides of the front and back. Cut yarn. Repeat on the other side of the top. Weave in loose ends.
Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.
Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.
Greetings everyone! Shawlettes and small scarves are so cute! and sometimes, are the key element in a chic look. That’s why I design at least one every year. This shawlette features a botanical-inspired, leaf-shaped pattern that flows in vertical stripes, all contained in a triangle structure. The challenging part in making this piece is getting the hang of knitting two types of Double Stitch Decreases, for which you will be happy to know that I've made a very short video tutorial about. Yes! at last, I've started my own YouTube channel, where I will show you how to knit/crochet the more complex stitches used in my designs. I would love to hear your feedback after you watch them, and I’m open to your constructive criticism. This shawlette is my last cotton-based design for this year; I'll start working with heavier yarns that suit the cold weather in my upcoming projects. Until then, I hope you all stay well and healthy.
Yardage:542- 546 yards (495- 500 m), approx. Gauge:22 sts and 32 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.
Knitting Terms:
st: stitch.
sts: stitches.
k: knit.
p: purl.
yo: yarn over.
sk2p: slip 1 st knitwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over k2tog (Left-leaning double decrease).
sskp: slip 2 sts knitwise, knit these 2 sts through back loops, slip the knitted stitch to the left needle and pass the third st over it, slip it back to the right needle (Right-leaning double decrease).
I highly recommend that you watch these two video before you start:
Instructions:
Cast on 15 sts, knit 2 rows. Work as follows:
Row 1 (wrong side): k 3, p 9, k 3.
Row 2: k 3, sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, k 3.
Row 3: repeat row 1.
Row 4: cast on 3 sts and knit them, k to end, cast on 3 sts. (21 sts)
Row 5: k 6, p 9, k 6.
Row 6: k 6, sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, k 6.
Row 7: repeat row 5.
Row 8: k to end.
Row 9: repeat row 5.
Row 10: cast on 3 sts and knit them, k 6, sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, k 6, cast on 3 sts. (27 sts)
Row 11: k 9, p 9, k 9.
Row 12: k to end.
Row 13: k 3, p 9, repeat to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 14: k 3, *sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp*, p 3, repeat between ** once, k 3.
Row 15: repeat row 13.
Row 16: cast on 3 sts and knit them, k 12, p 3, k 12, cast on 3 sts. (33 sts)
Row 17: k 3, *k 3, p 9, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k 6.
Row 18: k 6, *sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp*, p 3, repeat between ** once, k 6.
Row 19: repeat row 17.
Row 20: k 15, p 3, k 15.
Row 21: repeat row 17.
Row 22: cast on 3 sts and knit them, k 6, *sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp*, p 3, repeat between ** once, k 6, cast on 3 sts. (39 sts)
Row 23: k 9, *p 9, k 3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k 6.
Row 24: k 18, p 3, k 18.
General Pattern:
Row 25: k 3, p 9, repeat to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 26: k 3, *sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, p 3, repeat from * to last 12 sts, sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, k 3.
Row 27: repeat row 25.
Row 28: cast on 3 sts and knit them, k 3, *k 9, p 3, repeat from * to last 12 sts, k 12, cast on 3 sts.
Row 29: k 3, *k 3, p 9, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k 6.
Row 30: k 6, *sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, p 3, repeat from * to last 15 sts, sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, k 6.
Row 31: repeat row 29.
Row 32: k 6, *k 9, p 3, repeat from * to last 15 sts, k 15.
Row 33: repeat row 29.
Row 34: cast on 3 sts and knit them, k 6, *sk2p, (yo, k 1) three times, yo, sskp, p 3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k 6, cast on 3 sts.
Row 35: k 9, *p 9, k 3, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k 6.
Row 36: k 9, *k 9, p 3, repeat from * to last 18 sts, k 18.
Repeat the general pattern rows 14 times (or as you prefer), repeat 25-35 rows once, knit 3 rows.
Stretchy bind off row: k 2, slip the 2 sts back to left needle, k2tog, *k 1, slip the 2 sts back to left needle, k2tog, repeat from * to end. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here:
Weave in loose ends. Block well and enjoy.
Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.
Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.
Hello everyone! Now that fall is here, it's finally getting cool enough to work with yarn comfortably. I see a lot of neat and eye-catching knitting patterns while browsing the web, and I especially like ones that are inspired by botanical or geometrical shapes. So, for this piece, I joined two of these exceptionally beautiful patterns into one. I had a fun time while making this shawl because the pattern knits very smoothly. It can be flexibly made as small or as large as you prefer. I made it using cotton yarn so that it’s suitable to throw on whenever it gets a little chilly. I hope you enjoy yourselves while you knit it and have a great time!
Skill level: Intermediate
Get printable PDF for this pattern:
or
Materials:
Yarn: Kartopu Baby Natural Cotton, 51% acrylic, 49% cotton, 3.53 oz. (100 g), 219 yards (200 m), in the color K6259: 4 skeins.
Gauge: 18 sts and 24 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stockinette stitch.
Knitting Terms:
st: stitch.
sts: stitches.
k: knit.
p: purl.
yo: yarn over.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together.
ssk: slip, slip, knit the 2 sts together through back loops.
rsm: ring stitch marker.
Instructions:
Note: always purl ssk stitches through back loop.
Cast on 3 sts, knit 7 rows, turn work 90 degrees clockwise, pick up 1 st out of each purl row side (3 sts in total), turn work 90 degrees clockwise again, pick up 3 sts from bottom. (9 sts)
You can also watch this video tutorial to learn how to do this type of cast on:
Row 1 (wrong side): k 3, p 3, k 3.
Row 2: k 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 3.
Row 3 and every odd number row: k 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 4:k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3.
Row 6: k 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 3.
Row 8:k 3, yo, k 5, yo, k 3, yo, k 5, yo, k 3.
Put a ring stitch marker before and after the center stitch of each k 5 sts (center st of the pattern on each side), and also before and after the center st of the shawl, as shown in the image below.
Row 10:k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 3, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3.
Row 12:k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3.
Rows 14 and 16:k 3, yo, k to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 18:k 3, yo, *k 2, k2tog, yo, k 7,yo, ssk, k 2*, yo, k 3, yo, repeat between ** once, yo, k 3.
Row 20:k 3, yo, {*k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1*, repeat between ** once more, k 1}, yo, k 3, yo, repeat between {} once, yo, k 3.
Rows 22 and 24: repeat row 14.
Row 26:k 3, yo,k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4,k2tog, k 2, yo, k 7,yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 7, yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2,yo, k 3.
Row 28:k 3, yo,k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1,k2tog, k 2, yo, k 1,yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 1, yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2,yo, k 3.
Row 30: k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8,yo, k 3.
Row 32:k 3, yo,k 8,k2tog, k 2, yo, k 5, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8,yo, k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 5, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8,yo, k 3.
Row 34:k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4,k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3.
Row 36:k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1,k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3.
Row 38:k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 11, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 11, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3.
Row 40:k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 13, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 13, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3.
Row 42:k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 7, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 7, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3.
Row 44:k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 3, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 3, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3.
Row 46:k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 19, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 19, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3.
Row 48:k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 21, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3, yo, k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 21, yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, yo, k 3.
General Pattern
Row 50:k 3, yo, *k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4,k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to first rsm, k 7,yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, yo, k 3, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4, k2tog, k 2, yo, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 7, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 52:k 3, yo, *k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1,k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to first rsm, k 1, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to third rsm, k 1, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from * to last three sts, yo, k 3.
Row 54:k 3, yo, *k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to one st before first rsm, k 3, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from ** to center 3 sts,yo, k 3, yo, **k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to one st before third rsm, k 3, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 56:k 3, yo, *k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 2 sts before first rsm, k 5, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from ** to center 3 sts,yo, k 3, yo, **k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 2 sts before third rsm, k 5, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from * to last 3 sts,yo, k 3.
Row 58:k 3, yo,*k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4,k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 3 sts before first rsm, k 2, k2tog,yo, k 3, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 3 sts before third rsm, k 3, yo, ssk, k 2, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 60:k 3, yo, *k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1,k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 4 sts before first rsm, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 4 sts before third rsm, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 62:k 3, yo, *k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 5 sts before first rsm, k 11, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 5 sts before third rsm, k 11, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 64:k 3, yo, *k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 6 sts before first rsm, k 13, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 6 sts before third rsm, k 13, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 66:k 3, yo, *k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 7 sts before first rsm, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 7, yo, ssk, k 2, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 2, k2tog, yo, k 4, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 7 sts before third rsm, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 7, yo, ssk, k 2, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 4, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 68:k 3, yo, *k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 8 sts before first rsm, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 3, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2,repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 1, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 8 sts before third rsm, k 2, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 3, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 1, k2tog, yo, k 1, yo, ssk, k 2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 70:k 3, yo, *k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 9 sts before first rsm, k 19, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 8,repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 9 sts before third rsm, k 19, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 72:k 3, yo, *k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from * to 10 sts before first rsm, k 21, **yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from ** to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, **k 8, k2tog, k 2, yo, repeat from ** to 10 sts from third rsm, k 21, *yo, k 2, ssk, k 8, repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Row 73: repeat row 3.
Repeat the general pattern five times (or more if you prefer), then work rows 50 to 62 once.
Last Rows
First Row: k all sts.
Second Row: k 3, yo, k to center 3 sts, yo, k 3, yo, k to last 3 sts, yo, k 3.
Third Row: k all sts.
Stretchy bind off row: k 2, slip the 2 sts back to left needle, k2tog, *k 1, slip the 2 sts back to left needle, k2tog, repeat from * to end. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here:
Weave in loose ends. Block and enjoy.
Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.
Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.
UPDATE 28-Aug-2021: I forgot to upload the chart for the candy corn pattern when I posted this yesterday. You can find it now at the end of the post. I apologize for the confusion.
Hi everyone! Since summer season is technically over in a few days, I can’t wait to start working on new project for fall and winter. My contributions for Halloween this year have been mainly wearable items: starting with my two Halloween hats (Here and Here), and now this sweater. This is actually the adult version of my "Candy Corn Sweater" that I've designed back in 2019. It has been sitting in my to-do-list for a while since it was requested by a kind person, and I thought there is no better time than now to get this done. Unlike the child-size one, this sweater is worked up-down, because I found that knitting it this way is much easier. Also, I've separated the increasing rounds from the candy corn pattern in my instructions, to simplify the steps and so that you can concentrate on one task at a time. The sweater can be made to (hopefully) fit a wide range of sizes, and I have tried my best to give all the necessary measurements below. Have a great day as always, and I hope you enjoy making this sweater!
Yarn: Alize Baby Best, (90% acrylic, 10% bamboo), 3.35 oz (100 g), 262 yards (240 m), in the following colors and quantities: yellow 250 (3, 4, 4 skeins), gray 119 (2, 2, 3 skeins), orange 336 (1 skein), and white 55 (1 skein).
Double pointed needles (DPNs) sets, sizes US 6 (4 mm) and US 7 (4.5 mm).
Circular needles, sizes US 6 (4 mm) and US 7 (4.5 mm), 16" (40 cm) long.
Circular needles, sizes US 6 (4 mm) and US 7 (4.5 mm), 32"(80 cm) long.
Ring stitch marker.
Regular stitch marker.
Tapestry needle.
Sizes and measurements:
Size
Chest
S/M
33.5 - 40" (85 - 100 cm)
L/XL
42 - 48" (105 - 120 cm)
2XL/3XL
50 - 56" (125 - 140 cm)
Gauge:21 sts and 24 rounds = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stockinette stitch.
Yardage:
Size S/M: 1025 - 1030 yards (935 - 940 m).
Size L/XL:1130 - 1135 yards (1035 - 1040 m).
Size 2XL/3XL: 1240 - 1245 yards (1135 - 1140 m).
Knitting terms:
st: stitch.
sts: stitches.
k: knit.
p: purl.
k2tog: knit 2 sts together.
ssk: slip, slip, knit the 2 sts together through back loops.
stm: stitch marker.
Instructions:
Neck:
With gray color and 4 mm short circular needles, cast on 90 (96, 108) sts, join in round. Don't know how to join in the round? here is a short tutorial on how to do it (from 0:26 - 1:15 min):
Put a ring stm at the beginning of rounds. Work as follows:
Rib round: k 3, p 3 to end.
Work rib round 7 times. Change to 4.5 mm short circular needles, then purl one round.
Yoke:
Note: put a regular stm at the beginning of purl round. The yoke is measured from this stm.
First increase round: knit all sts, increasing 30 (34, 38) sts evenly spaced. 120 (130, 146) sts
Knit 5 (8, 11) rounds, change to 4.5 mm long circular needles.
Second increase round: knit all sts, increasing 30 (36, 40) sts evenly spaced. 150 (166, 186) sts
Knit 5 (8, 11) rounds.
Third increase round: knit all sts, increasing 30 (38, 42) sts evenly spaced. 180 (204, 228) sts
Work the candy corn chart 1 right to left using the gray, yellow, white and orange yarns. Cut white and orange yarns.
Knit 1 (4, 7) rounds, or until the yoke measures 23 (27, 31) cm.
Dividing round:
From the ring stitch marker, k 45 (56, 64) sts for half back, *place the next 60 (68, 82) sts on piece of yarn or slip them into spare 4.5 mm short circular needles for the sleeve.
Cast on 6 (8, 10) sts for the under arm*, knit 90 (112, 128) sts for front and repeat between ** one more time. knit the last 45 (56, 64) sts to the end of round. 192 (240, 276) sts
Body:
With yellow yarn, keep on knitting in rounds until the body measures 24 (25, 26) cm from the dividing round.
Work the candy corn chart 3 right to left using the gray, yellow, white and orange yarns. Cut yellow, white and orange yarn.
With gray yarn knit 3 rounds, change to 4 mm long circular needles. Repeat rib round 9 times. Bind off all sts.
Sleeve:
Slip the 60 (68, 82) sts into 4.5 mm set of double pointed needles, or 4.5 mm short circular needles (as you prefer). Join yellow yarn and pick up one st out of each of the body under arm 6 (8, 10) sts. 66 (76, 92) sts
Put a ring stitch marker in the middle of the picked up 6 (8, 10) sts to start knitting the sleeve.
Sleeve shaping: *Knit 7 (5, 3) rounds.
Decreasing round: knit one round to 2 sts before stm, ssk before ring stm, k2tog after ring stm.
Repeat from * 9 (14, 16) times. 48 (48, 60) sts
Knit until sleeve measures 30 (27, 25) cm from the dividing round.
Work the candy corn chart 3 right to left using the gray, yellow, white and orange yarn. Cut yellow, white and orange yarn.
With gray yarn knit 3 rounds, change to 4 mm set of double pointed needles, or short circular needles. repeat rib round 9 times. Bind off all sts. Weave in loose ends. Block and enjoy wearing.
Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.
Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.
