Showing posts with label Baby. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Baby. Show all posts

Christmas Stocking Granny Square



Hello everyone, Christmas is just around the corner. I like to make these Christmas themed granny squares each year. You can do alot with them, Make a blanket out of them, a table runner, or even use them as ornaments. 

This year I made the stocking. After a few failed trials, I finally came with one that I liked. 

Materials:


  • Yarn: Ayda Hilal 100% Acrylic 100 grams / 235 m in colors HLL224 , HLL240 and HLL202. 
  • Hook: 3 mm
  • Tapestry needle

Measurements: 14 cm / 5.5 inch X 14 cm / 5.5 inch

Abbreviations:


  • SC: single crochet
  • DC: double crochet
  • HDC: half double crochet
  • CH: chain
  • SL ST: slip stitch


The Stocking

With red yarn, chain 27, Work as follows:




Row 1: in  the fourth ch from the hook make a dc, dc in the next 9 chs, dc2tog twice, dc in the next 9 chs, 2 dc in the last ch, turn.

Row 2, 3 and 4: ch 3 (count as a double crochet), dc in the first dc, dc in the next 9, dc2tog twice, dc in the next 9 chs, 2 dc in the last ch, turn.



for the fourth row skip the last 2 dc, instead make a hdc and sl st.



















Now we are going to work on the edge of the rows, sc and hdc in the dc of the third row, dc and hdc in the dc of the second row, sc and a sl st in the dc of the first row. Cut of the thread and weave in the loose end.




For the upper edge of the stocking, using the white yarn make ch 14,


Row 1: in the forth ch from the hook make a dc, dc into each ch., turn.

Row 2: ch 3 (count as a dc), dc into each st. cut off the thread and weave in the loose ends.



The Square



With the green yarn make a magic ring.

Round 1: ch 2 (count as a dc), 2 dc, ch 2, *(3 dc, ch 2)* repeat 3 times. Sl st into 2nd chain in the beginning of the round.

Round 2-7: ch 2, *dc into each st to next ch 2 space, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the ch 2 space, repeat from * 4 times, sl st into 2nd ch in the beginning of the round. 

Round 8: With the red yarn make a standing double crochet (or ch 2), *dc into each st to next ch 2 space, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch 2 space, repeat from * 4 times, sl st into standing double crochet in the beginning of the round. Cut off the yarn and weave in the loose ends.

Round 9:With the red yarn make a standing sc (or chain 1), *sc into each st to next ch 2 space, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the ch 2 space, repeat from * 4 times, sl st into standing sc in the beginning of the round . Cut off the yarn and weave in the loose ends.





Finishing the square:


Sew the parts together using a tapestry needle.




Happy Crocheting!

Check out my Christmas squares from last year.






Pink Blossoms Scarf


I made this scarf for my little niece Yara. It may not be very appropriate for winter, but it's still warm where I live. I wanted to make it in a more wintry colors, but Yara insisted on these colors. You can customize it to any length or width you want. 

Notes: 


  • The pattern is written using American terminology.
  • The pattern is a multiples of 5 plus 1.
Measurements: 120 cm / 47 inch X 14 cm / 18.5 inch.

You're going to need:

  • Yarn: Alize Diva Baby 100% microfiber acrylic, 100 g, 350 mt, in colors 287 and 276, one skein of each color. 
  • Hook: 2.5 mm 
  • Tapestry needle.

Stitches Used:
  • Ch: Chain
  • Sc: Single crochet
  • Hdc: Half double crochet
  • Dc: Double crochet
  • Pc: Popcorn

Popcorn stitch:



1. Start by making 5 dcs. Drop the loop from the hook. 




2. Insert the hook from front to back into the top first dc and the dropped loop.



3. Pull the loop through the st.



4. ch 1 to close the popcorn.


Pattern:

With the blue yarn make (402) Chain.

Row 1: in the second chain from the hook make a sc, (ch 5, skip 4 chains, make a sc in the next ch) repeat to the end of the row. Turn.


Row 2: ch 5 ( count as dc and ch 2), hdc in the ch 5, ch 2, dc in the next sc, (ch 2, hdc in the ch 5, ch 2, dc in the next sc) repeat to the end of the row. Turn. Cut off the thread and weave in the loose end.


Row 3: with the pink yarn make a chain in the last dc, (sc, ch 3, pc in the hdc, ch 3, sc in the next dc) repeat to the end of the row. Turn. Cut off the thread and weave in the loose end.


Row 4: with the blue yarn make a standing dc (or ch3) in the last sc, (ch 2, hdc in the pc, ch2, dc in the sc) repeat to the end of the row. Turn.

Row 5: ch 1, make a sc in the last dc, (ch5, sc in the next dc) repeat to the end of the row. Turn.

Repeat rows 2 to 5 to the required width. For the last repeat stop at row 2.


Magic Baby Bib



Well friends, it seems that I’ve been guided to crochet more pieces, for I still have Alize cotton baby yarn. So to complete the baby set, I decided to make a nice handy bib with the same magic square pattern .

Material:

 Yarn: Alize cotton baby soft, 50% cotton, 50% acrylic, 100 g. / 270 mt. (3.53 0z. /295 yds), one skein of color light yellow 643, one skein of color winter sky 514, or you can make the hat with the same yarn left from the blanket. And I also used two strands of the yarn.

Hook: 5 mm, US. H/8

1 button 0.5 “, 1.25 cm diameter

Tapestry needle

Level: easy

Bib measurements

Width: 8 “/ 20.5 cm
Height with neck band: 10 “/ 25.5 cm
Term of stitches used in the design (American)
ch: chain
sc: single stitch
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
2dctog: 2 double crochet together
3dctog: 3 double crochet together

Making the Bib:

With light yellow yarn, make a magic ring, or you can chain six and sl st to the first ch.

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc, ch 1, repeat 8 more times from *, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 3.

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc in the ch1 space, ch 1, dc in previous round dc, ch 1, repeat from * 8 more times, dc in ch1 space, ch 1, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 3.

Round 3: ch 2 (counts as dc), (*dc in ch 1 space, dc in dc, repeat from * 3 more times, skip ch 1 space, ch 2, dc in dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, **dc in ch 1 space, dc in dc, repeat from ** 3 more times, skip ch 1 space, ch 2, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.


Round 4: ch 2 (counts as dc), (skip 1 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc, 2 dc in ch 2 space, dc in dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, skip 1 d, ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc, 3 dc in ch 2 space, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch2.

Round 5: ch 2 (counts as dc), (3 dc in ch 2 space, dc in dc skip 1 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 8 dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, 3 dc in ch 2 space, dc in dc, skip 1 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 6: ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in dc, (2 dc in dc twice, dc in dc, 2 dc in ch 2 space, dc in dc, skip 1 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, 2 dc in dc twice, dc in dc, 2 dc in ch 2 space, dc in dc, skip 1 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc  sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 7: ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in dc twice, (2 dc in dc twice, dc in the next 5 dc, 2 dc in ch 2 space, dc in dc, skip 1 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 6 dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, 2 dc in dc twice, dc in the next 3 dc, cut yarn and weave in loose end.

Bind on the winter sky yarn at the first stitch of previous round.

Round 8: ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in the next 3 dc, (2 dc in dc twice, dc in the next 9 dc, 2 dc in ch 2 space, dc in dc, skip 1 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, dc in dc, 2 dc in dc twice, 3dctog, don’t cut yarn.




Making the neck band

Ch 52, dc in third ch (the skipped 2 ch count as dc), from here you will be working in each of the 49 remaining chains, 2 dc, skip 1 ch, ch 1 (first button hole), 3 dc, skip 1 ch, ch 2 (second button hole), 3 dc, 2dctog eight times, 6 dc, 2dctog nine times, sl st to last dc of round 7. Cut yarn.

Bind on the winter sky yarn at the first stitch of previous round.

 Round 9: ch 1, sc in the same st, (skip 1 dc, ch 3, sc) repeat through outer edges of the bib till the last dc and before the 3dctog st, ending with sc, skip 3 st, ch 1, sc (you are now crocheting in neck band), and repeat (skip 1 dc, ch 3, sc) along the outer edge of the neck band, till the last 8 st, and you end with sc: skip 2 st, ch 1, sc, skip 1 st, ch 3, sc, skip 1 st, ch 3, sc, skip the last st, ch 3, sc in the first 2 ch of the neck band chains, ch 3, sc in the same ch 2 space cut yarn, weave in ends, sew button in the second dc of round 8.



Magic Baby Hat





Now that I’ve finished the blanket, some yarn of both colors are still in one of my yarn baskets, so why not try to make a hat this time?.



Materials:

Yarn: Alize cotton baby soft, 50% cotton, 50% acrylic, 100 g. / 270 mt. (3.53 0z. /295 yds), one skein of color light yellow 643, one skein of color winter sky 514, or you can make the hat with the same yarn left from the blanket. And I also used two strands of the yarn.

Hook: 5 mm, US. H/8

Tapestry needle

Level: easy

Hat measurements
size 6 to 12 months
head measurement:  17 "/ 43.5 cm
height: 5.5 "/ 14 cm


Term of stitches used in the design (American)
ch: chain
sc: single stitch
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch

Making the hat

With light yellow yarn, make a magic ring, or you can chain six and sl st to the first ch.

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc, ch 1, repeat 8 more times from *, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 3.

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc in the ch1 space, ch 1, dc in previous round dc, ch 1, repeat from* 8 more times, dc in ch1 space, ch 1, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 3.

Round 3: ch 2 (counts as dc), (2 dc in the ch 1 space, dc in dc, *ch 2, dc in next dc, repeat from * 3 more times), repeat between brackets 2 more times, 2 dc in the ch1 space, dc in dc, *ch 2, dc in next dc, repeat from * 2 more times, ch 2, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 4: ch 2 (counts as dc), (dc in each 3 dc, 2 dc in the ch 2 space, dc in dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc, repeat from * 2 more times), repeat between brackets 2 more times, dc in each 3 dc, 2 dc in the ch 2 space, dc in dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc, repeat from * 1 more time, ch 3, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Note: you probably noticed that these four rounds are the same as the magic granny square.


Round 5: ch 2 (counts as dc), (dc in each next 6 dc, 3 dc in the ch 3 space, dc in dc, *ch 3, dc in next dc, repeat from * 1 more time), repeat between brackets 2 more times, dc in each next 6 dc, 3 dc in the ch 3 space, dc in dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 6: ch 2 (counts as dc), (dc in the next 3 dc, skip 2 dc, ch 2, 5 dc in the next 5 dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc, ch 3, dc in the next dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, dc in the next 3 dc, skip 2 dc, ch 2, 5 dc in the next 5 dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 7: ch 2 (counts as dc), (dc in the next 3 dc, skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 6 dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, dc in next dc), repeat between brackets 2 more times, dc in the next 3 dc, skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 6 dc, 3 dc in ch 3 space, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 8: ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in the next 3 dc, *(skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc) twice, skip 2 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 10 dc, repeat from * 2 more times, (skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc) twice, skip 2 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 6 dc, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 9: ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in the next 3 dc, *(skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc) three times, skip 2 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc, repeat from * 2 more times, (skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc) three times, skip 2 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Round 10: ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in the next 3 dc, *(skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc) four times, skip 2 dc, ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc, repeat from * 2 more times, (skip ch 2 space, ch 2, dc in the next dc) four times, skip 2 dc, ch 2, sl st to 2nd ch of the first ch 2.

Cut yarn, weave in loose end, and bind on the winter sky yarn at the first stitch of previous round.

Round 11: ch 1, sc in the same stitch, 2 sc in each 2 ch space and sc in each dc to the end of round, sl st to first ch 1.

Round 12: ch 1, sc in the same stitch, (ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next), repeat to last st, skip it, ch 3, sl st to first ch 1, cut yarn and weave in loose ends.


Wait for the next post of the Bib...

Magic Square Baby Blanket

From time to time, I sit down between large projects, experimenting with new small crochet pieces, such as coasters and granny squares. Sometimes nothing interesting comes out, but I think, this time, it really turned out well. A magic granny square that turns from a circle shape to almost a square, without the usual angles made of a number of chain stitches.

Since I really liked this magic granny square, I decided to come up with a project made of a number of it. I found this nice Alize cotton baby yarn, I chose two pastel colors, because they are my favorite, and here it is.

Skill level: Easy 

I am really glad to announce that this post was featured in AllFreeCrochet's list of the top 100 crochet patterns of 2019. Click the image to view the full list:

 

 

Materials:

  • Yarn: Alize cotton baby soft, 50% cotton, 50% acrylic, 295 yards (270 m), 3.53 oz (100 g), in the colors winter sky 514 (4 skeins) and light yellow 643 (2 skeins).
  • Crochet hook, size US H/8 (5 mm).
  • Tapestry needle

Measurements: 

  • Granny square: 5.5" x 5.5" (14 cm x 14 cm), approx.
  • Blanket: 32" x 25" (84 cm x 64 cm) approx.

Gauge: 18 sts and 10 round = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in double crochet. 

Yardage: 600- 620 yards (550- 570m), approx.

Crochet terms (US):

  • ch: chain.
  • st: stitch.
  • mr: magic ring.
  • sl st: slip stitch.
  • dc: double crochet.

Instructions:

Make a magic ring, or ch 6 sts and slip into the first st.

Round 1: ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), (dc, ch 1) nine times, sl st into third ch of the first ch 4. 

Round 2: ch 4, *dc in ch 1 space, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1, repeat from * 8 more times, dc in ch1 space, ch 1, sl st into third ch of the first ch 4. 

Round 3: ch 3, (dc 2 in ch 1 space, dc in dc, *skip ch 1 space, ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from * 3 more times), repeat between () two more times, dc 2 in ch1 space, dc in dc, **skip ch 1 space, ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from ** two more times, ch 2, sl st into the third ch of the first ch 3.

Round 4: ch 3, (dc in dc three times, dc 2 in ch 2 space, dc in dc, *skip ch 2 space, ch 3, dc in dc, repeat from * two more times), repeat between () two more times, dc in dc three times, dc 2 in ch 2 space, dc in dc, **skip ch 2 space, ch 3, dc in dc, repeat from ** one more time, ch 3, sl st into the third ch of the first ch 3.

Round 5: ch 3, (dc in dc  six times, dc 3 in ch 3 space, dc in dc, *skip ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in dc, repeat from * one more time), repeat between () two more times, dc in dc six times,  dc 3 in ch 3 space, dc in dc, skip ch 3 space, ch 4, dc in dc, skip ch 3 space, ch 4, sl st into the third ch of the first ch 3.

Round 6: ch 3 , (dc in dc ten times, dc 4 in ch 4 space, dc in dc, skip ch 4 space, ch 5, dc in dc), repeat between () two more times, dc in dc ten more times, dc 4 in ch 4 space, dc in dc, skip ch 4 space, ch 5, sl st into the third ch of the first ch 3.

Cut yarn, weave in loose ends and block if needed.


Joining the granny squares:

Note: Because the square I made has round corners, I had to come up with a flexible joining method to make the blanket look nice and tidy. I should thank  The Patch Work Heart for the inspiration. I used their method, but made minor changes to suit my granny squares' round corners.

Follow the pattern below:

First row: start making the roller coaster row from the corner of a granny square and follow the arrows I've drawn, or the full instructions in the link. But make the numbers of chain stitches I mentioned at the corners.

- Remember when you finish this row, all the granny squares will be attached and the rectangle blanket is complete.

- Only the corners attachments need care 

 
Second row: it is simpler, and goes only around the border of  the blanket, just follow the drawn pattern, or you can make your own design.
Click Here For Full Size Image
 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

Eggy Chicky Dress


Size: 12 - 18 months.

Measurements:

Length: 15 inch / 38 cm.
Width of the waist: 24 inch / 60 cm in diameter
From the center of the back to end of the sleeve: 14.75 inch / 37.5 cm.  

Materials:
Yarn: Alize Happy Baby 100 g / 3.53 Oz, 330 mt / 361 yds, 65% acrylic 35% polyamide.
In colors: white 55 (1 skein), yellow 187 (1 skein) and beige 310 (2 skeins).
Knitting needles: 4 mm.
Buttons: four yellow, 12mm in diameter.
Beads: six brown, 5mm in diameter.

Gauge:
24 sts in 16 rounds 10X10 cm 4X4 inch.

Abbreviations:
K: knit
P: purl
K2tog: knit two sts together
M1: increase one st

Patterns:

Stocking Pattern: Knit right side rows, purl wrong side rows.

Rib Pattern: k1, p1.

Strip Patterns used in the back and the front:

Strip pattern 1:
1st row: k3, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 4 sts, slip st, k3.
2nd row: p3, (slip st, p7) repeat to the last 4 sts, slip st, p3.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Strip pattern 2:
1st row: k7, (slip stitch, k7) repeat to the last 8 sts, slip stitch, k7.
2nd row: p7, (slip stitch, p7) repeat to the last 8 sts, slip stitch, p7.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.


Chick Pattern:


 Note repeat the chick pattern two time (total 6 chicks)

Dress Tutorial

Back:

The skirt

Cast on 111 sts with color A
Work 5 rows in stocking pattern.
6th row (turning row): K1, (yo, k2tog) repeat to the last st.
Work 6 rows in stocking pattern.

(Change to color B, Work strip pattern 1 once, Change to color A, Work strip pattern 2 once), Repeat three more times.

Change to color B, work the first two of the strip pattern 1.

Decreasing row: k2, (k3tog, k1) repeat to the last two sts, k2. (56 sts remaining)
Next row: work rib pattern starting with purl.
Work four more rows with color B in rib pattern, and two rows in color A. The length of the skirt now is approx. 8 inch/ 20 cm.

The Yoke:

Continue working rows in stocking pattern for 1.75 inch/ 4.5 cm (14 rows).
Begin the arm hole shaping: decrease 5 sts at the beginning of the next two rows (46 sts), continue working in the stocking pattern 32 rows.
(Back length now measures 14 inch / 35 cm back).

Neckline shape:
Knit 11 sts, hold 24 st in a st holder, work right side shoulder band with color B as follows:
Work 8 rows in rib pattern and bind off sts. Work left side shoulder band the same as the right side.


The front:

The Skirt:

Cast on 111 sts with color A
Work 5 rows in stocking pattern.
6th row (turing row): K1, (yo, k2tog) repeat to the last st.
Work 6 rows in stocking pattern.
Change to color B, work strip pattern 1 once, change to color A, work the four rounds of strip pattern 2, work chick pattern, work the next four rows in stocking pattern.
Change to color B, Work strip pattern 1 once, Change to color A, Work strip pattern 2 once.

Change to color B work the first two of strip pattern 1.

Decreasing row: k2, (k3tog, k1) repeat to the last two sts, k2. (56 sts remaining)
Next row: work 1x1 rib pattern starting with purl.
Work four more rows in color B rib pattern, and two rows in color A. The length of the skirt now is approx. 8 inch/ 20 cm.

The Yoke: All is worked in stocking pattern
Continue working rows in stocking pattern for 1.75 inch/ 4.5 cm (14 rows).
Begin the arm hole shaping, decrease 5 sts at the beginning of the two rows (46 sts), continue working in the stocking pattern 20 rows, (The length of the front now is approx. 12.75 inch / 33 cm the front).

Neckline shaping:
Bind off six sts at the center for neck shaping, and finish each side separately.
Work the left neckline: decrease 4 sts once, 2 sts twice and one st once, at the beginning of each knitting row, when the front measures 13 inch / 35 cm.

Change to color B and work 8 rows in rib pattern to make the left shoulder band, making two button holes in the 4th row as follows:
4th row: K1, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k1.
5th row: p1, K1, p1, m1, p1, k1, p1, m1, p1, k1, p1.

Bind off the sts.
Work the right neckline and shoulder band the same as the left mirror wise.

Sleeve: (make two)

Cast on with color A 33 sts
1st, 3rd and 5th: knit.
2nd and 4th: purl.
6th: K1, (yo, k2tog) repeat to the last st, k1.
Work 6 rows knitting the right side and purling wrong side.

Change to color B, (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k4, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 5 sts, slip st, k4. (35 sts)
2nd row: p5, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 6 sts, slip st, p5.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color C: (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k1, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 2 sts, slip st, k1. (37 sts)
2nd row: p2, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 3 sts, slip st, p2.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color A: (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k6, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 7 sts, slip st, k6. (39 sts).
2nd row: p7, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 8 sts, slip st, p7.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.


Change to color B, (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k3, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 4 sts, slip st, k3. (41 sts)
2nd row: p4, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 5 sts, slip st, p4.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color C: (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k8, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 9 sts, slip st, k8. (43 sts)
2nd row: p9, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 10 sts, slip st, p9.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color A: (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k5, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 6 sts, slip st, k5. (45 sts)
2nd row: p6, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 7 sts, slip st, p6.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color B, (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k2, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 3 sts, slip st, k2. (47 sts)
2nd row: p3, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 4 sts, slip st, p3.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color C, (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k7, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 8 sts, slip st, k7. (49 sts)
2nd row: p8, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 9 sts, slip st, p8.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color A: (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k4, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 5 sts, slip st, k4. (51 sts)
2nd row: p5, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 6 sts, slip st, p5.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color B, (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k1, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 2 sts, slip st, k1. (53 sts)
2nd row: p2, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 3 sts, slip st, p2.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color C, (increase one st at each end of the first row of the strip pattern)
1st row: k6, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 7 sts, slip st, k6. (55 sts)
2nd row: p7, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 8 sts, slip st, p77.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Note: do not increase in the first row.
Change to color A:
1st row: k3, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 4 sts, slip st, k3. (55 sts)
2nd row: p3, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 4 sts, slip st, p3.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Change to color B:
1st row: k7, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 8 sts, slip st, k7. (55 sts)
2nd row: p7, (slip st, k7) repeat to the last 8 sts, slip st, p7.
Work 4 rows in stocking pattern.

Bind off all the sts.
Sleeve measures approx. 11 inch / 28 cm.

Finishing: block pieces to measurement.
Place the front shoulder bands over the back shoulder bands and sew sleeves in position, close sleeves and side seams.

Finishing the neck:
Front neck: pick up 40 sts evenly through the neckline and the front shoulder bands, work 4 rows in rib pattern, bind off.
Back neck: pick up the 24 sts of the neck and work 4 rows in rib pattern catching the edge of the back shoulder bands at the end of each row, bind off.

Fold over the brim at turning row and tack down cast on row to inside of brim, at the hem of the skirt and the sleeves

Sew the buttons and the beads in place.