Inca Inspired Shawl

I can't imagine how quickly time goes by, the first half of the year has already passed. So, it's about time to start preparing projects for cold months, and see what is needed to work them.

As a matter of fact, I didn't do many pieces that can be called summer projects, such as doilies, light shawls and baby cotton blankets, because almost all my yarn stash this year has been bulky and woolly.

This project's yarn is an old fine wool, originally designated for making socks. I purchased it more than ten years ago. It's obvious that I can't design adult socks, so I was inspired lately by the Inca old clothing to turn it into a light shawl with fringes, it's simple, yet elegant, and suitable for many outdoor occasions. I hope you have fun knitting it.

Level: easy

GET printable PDF for this pattern here.


Material:

• Sockenwolle “sirmione”, 100% premium acrylic, 50 g. / 1.76 oz., 210 m / 230 yards: 4 skeins.
• (Suggestion: You can use any fine yarn suitable for knitting socks, and work it using thicker needles than what is suggested by the manufacturer. It should get you the same result).
• Circular needles, 4.5 mm/ 7 US, 100 cm/ 40” long.
• Stitch marker ring.
• Tapestry needle.

 
Measurements: width = 178 cm /70”, height = 56 cm/ 22” .
 

Yardage: 820- 840 m/ 895- 915 yards.

Gauge: 19 st x 39 row in garter stitch.

Knitting terms:

• k: knit
• yo: yarn over
• yot: yarn over twice

Garter stitch:
knit all rows.

Instructions:

Cast on 5 sts, k one row, put a stitch marker in center st, always keep the stitch marker in the center st, work as follows:

Row 1: *k 1, yo, repeat from * four times, k 1, turn.

Row 2: k 1, yo, k to last st, yo, k 1, turn.

Row 3: k 1, yo, k to center st, yot, k 1, yot, k to last st, yo, k 1, turn.

Row 4: k 1, yo, k all sts (k the yot as 1 st) to last st, yo, k 1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4, until sts count 495, or you get the desired measures (total number equals= multiple of 4+1), knit one row.

Cast off Row:

Follow the steps:

1. co 2 sts.

2. *insert left needle into the right needle st from back to front, yo the right needle and draw it out to make a new stitch (like making a chain in crochet), pull out the left needle, repeat from * 4 times.

3. Insert left needle into the root of the same stitch (that you made 4 chains into) from back to front and knit one st, now there are 2 sts in right needle, slip the first over the second.

4. Cast off 4 sts.

Repeat steps (2 - 4) to the last 3 sts, cast them off, cut yarn.

Weave in loose ends, make a six strands (30 cm long each) bundles for fringes, and insert them in first and last eight (4 ch rings), middle fifteen (4 ch rings) and every alternate rings in between.

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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"Tulip Glow In Black" Dress

I love making crochet dresses for toddlers; it has been one of my favorite past times ever since I learned making clothes when I was fifteen years old. Back then, I used to make garments for my younger sisters, and later in life, for my daughters. I also like mixing between my hobbies, by combining sewing with crochet, for example, when making dresses.

The dress in this post is not actually a new design; I made it several years ago. And as I mentioned in a previous post, what prevents me from sharing similar designs is the sewing/crocheting mix in the tutorial instructions, and how not every person who excels in crocheting/knitting can also sew and vice versa.

Nevertheless, if you like the yokes I make, and you are familiar with making crochet dresses, then feel free to finish the dress with whatever crochet skirt design you like. The yoke is simple, and its instructions are both written and illustrated. I hope you find it suitable for your beloved little missies.

Intermediate level

Materials:

• Yarn: Catania Schachenmaer Fine, 100% cotton, 50g, 125m in Black 00110 (3 skeins), White 00106 (1 skein), Red 00115 (1 skein), and Green 00419 (1 skein).
• Hook, size 3.5 mm/ US 4.
• Yarn needle
• Three buttons, 1.5 cm diameter.

Gauge: 

28 sts x 27 rows in 4 x 4 inches
sc stitch pattern.


Yardage:

• 250-300 m/ 280-350 yards (size 3 years) approx.
• 300-350 m/ 330-385 yards ( size 5 years) approx.

Dimensions/ size:

• 3 years old: 58 cm/23" under arm bust circumference, 20 cm/ 8" height from shoulder.
• 5 years old: 65 cm/25.5" under arms bust, 25 cm/ 10" height from shoulder.

Crochet terms (US):

• ch: chain.
• ss: slip stitch.
• sc: single crochet.
• dc: double crochet.

How to make Popcorn stitch:

1. Work 5 double crochet (dc) stitches in the same stitch.
2. Drop the loop from your hook.
3. Insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first double crochet of the group.
4. Grab the dropped loop with your hook and pull it through the stitch.

Instructions:

Notes:

• ch 1 at the beginning of rows is not a countable st.
• When the popcorn row is finished on right side, the next sc row in black yarn is also worked on right side.
• The instructions between parentheses are for the large size.

Back:

With black yarn and 3.5 mm hook, make 66 (78) chains

Row 1 (right side): sc in second ch and every ch, turn. (65, 77 sts)

Row 2: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: repeat row 2. cut yarn.



Tulip flower pattern

With green yarn, work next row:

Row 4: make a standing dc, (or ch 3 in first st), skip st, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in st, skip 2 sts, repeat from * to last 3 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in st, skip st, dc in last st, cut yarn, turn.

With red yarn, work next row:

Row 5 (right side): make a standing dc and ch 1, (or ch 4 in first st), skip dc, * popcorn st in ch 1 space, skip 2 dc, ch 2, repeat from * to last ch 1 space, popcorn in ch 1 space, skip dc, ch 1, dc in last dc (or in third ch of ch 3), cut yarn, don’t turn.

With black yarn:

Row 6 (right side): make a standing sc, (or ch 1 and sc in first st), sc in ch 1 space, *sc in popcorn st, sc 2 in ch 2 space, repeat from * to last popcorn, sc in popcorn, sc in ch 1 space, sc in last dc, turn.

Row 7 and 8: repeat row 2.

Row 9: with green yarn, repeat rows 4.

Row 10: with white yarn, repeat row 5 .

Row 11: with black yarn, repeat row 6.

With black yarn, repeat row 4 three times.



Right backside:

Arm line shaping and back opening:

Row 1: Ss 4, ch 1, sc 31 (37), turn. 31 (37) sts

Row 2: ch 1, sc 28 (34) turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc 26 (32), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 (27, 35) times.



Right Neckline shaping:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 10 (16), turn.

Repeat row 3 twice, cut yarn leaving 6 inches for shoulder seem sewing.



Left backside:

Arm line shaping and back opening:

With black yarn, bind on in fifth st of the first row of right backside center end (see the photo), work as follows:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 31(37), turn. 31(37) sts

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc 28 (34), turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 26 (32), turn.

Repeat row 3 once more.



Making first buttonhole:

Row 5: ch 1, sc 2, skip 2 sts, ch 2, sc to end, turn.

Row 6: ch 1, sc to ch 2 space, sc 2 in ch 2 space, sc to end, turn.

Row 7: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

*Repeat row 7 eleven (thirteen) times, repeat rows 5 and 6 to make second button hole, repeat from * once more time (making third button hole within), repeat row 7 once (three) times.



Left Neckline shaping:

Row 1: ss 11, ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc 12 (18), turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc (10, 16), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 once, cut yarn leaving 6 inches for shoulder seem sewing.

Front:

Work the same as back until arm lines shaping:

Row 1: Ss 4, ch 1, sc to last 4 sts, turn. 57 (69) sts

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc 63, turn. 51 (63 sts)

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc 59, turn. 47 (59 sts)

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 eighteen (twenty two) times, then make right side neckline shaping as follows:



Right neckline shaping:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 10 (16), turn.

Repeat row 10 times, cut yarn.



Left neckline shaping:

Leave 17 center sts, bind on yarn, work as follows:

Row 1: ss 11, ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc 12 (18), turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc (10, 16), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 nine times, cut yarn.

Finishing instructions:

Sew back and front side seams together, sew shoulder seams together, sew buttons in place, work a sc row into the necklines and arm left and right openings. Weave in loose ends.

Make a skirt from a poplin cloth with matching dimensions, and sew it to the bust.

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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Ombre Poncho

Hello and welcome to my first post of the new year! This project has been a long time coming, I started working on this poncho back in fall, but, as usual, I got busy with other stuff, fall turned into winter, and now spring is at the door. Nevertheless, here it is, a poncho the color of autumn leaves. If you choose to, you can work it using any ombre color gradient, or even any other bulky color combo yarn you like. I hope you enjoy making it. Have cozy knitting days!

Skill level: Intermediate

GET printable PDF for this pattern here.

This post was featured in Favecrafts' list of the top 100 crochet patterns of 2019. Click the image below to view the full list:

Materials:

• Yarn: Alize Superlana Maxi Long Batik, %75 acrylic, %25 wool, 8.82 oz (250 g), 273 yards (250 m), in the color 6771: 2 skeins. 
• Circular knitting needles, size US 15 (10 mm), 40" (100 cm) long. 
• Tapestry needle 
• Stitch marker 
• Stitches holders 

Yardage: 490 - 520 yards (450 - 475 m).

Gauge: 9.5 sts and 13 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stockinette stitch.

Measurements: center back down: 25.5" (65 cm), side shoulder to end: 20.5" (52 cm). See image below:

knitting terms:

• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• yo: yarn over.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops.
• m1: make one stitch increase.
• kyokrb (porthole eyelet): (k 1, yarn over, k 1) into the same stitch in the row below. For more on how to Knit this, you can watch this tutorial video I made: 

Instructions:

Note 1: the two balls of yarn I've used have the same color gradient, so the back and front pieces are almost identical.

Note 2: when reaching last row in the back and front pieces, you can either cast off all stitches and sew the shoulders together, or if you are familiar with the Kitchener stitch, use it to attach the back and front at the shoulders' last rows.

Poncho Back Part:

Cast on 3 sts:

Row 1: k

Row 2: k 1, m 1, k 1, m 1, k 1. (5 sts)

Row 3: k

Row 4: k 1, m 1, k 3, m 1, k 1. (7 sts)

Row 5: k.

Row 6: k 1, m1, k 5, m1, k 1. (9 sts)

Row 7: k 4, p 1, k 4.

Row 8: k 4, kyokrb, k 4.

Row 9: k 4, p to last 4 sts, k 4.

Row 10: k to center st, kyokrb, k to end.

Repeat rows 9 and 10 until the sts count 53.

Middle Triangle:

With wrong side work as follows, (from now always mark center stitch):

Row 1: k 4, p 22, k 1, p 22, k 4.

Row 2: k 26, yo, k 1, yo, k 26.

Row 3: k 4, p 22, k 3, p 22, k 4.

Row 4: k 26, yo, k 3, yo, k 26.

Row 5: k 4, p 22, k 5, p 22, k 4.

Row 6: k 26, yo, k 5, yo, k 26.

Side Increases:

Row 7: k 4, p 22, k 7, p 22, k 4, cast on 20 sts at the end of row.

Row 8: k 46, yo, k 7, yo, k 26, cast on 20 sts at the end of this row.

Row 9: k 24, p 22, k 9, p 22, k 24.

Row 10: k 46, yo, k 9, yo, k 46.

Row 11: k 24, p 22, k 11, p 22, k 24.

Row 12: k 46, yo, k 11, yo, k 46.

Row 13: k 24, p 22, k 13, p 22, k 24

Row 14: k 46, yo, k 13, yo, k 46.

Row 15: k 4, p 42, k 15, p 42, k 4.

Row 16: k 46, yo, k 15, yo, k 46.

Work on these two increasing rows until the triangle in the middle stitches count 41 and ending a wrong side row.

Neck Edge Right Shoulder Side:

Row 1: k 46, yo, k 20, cast off 17 sts, k 4, yo, k 46.

Row 2: k 4, p 42, k 5.

Cast off all stitches leaving ( or keep sts in a st holder, cut yarn leave 3 yrd tail yarn).

Left Shoulder Seam:

Insert yarn in the center back stitch (that has been decreased when working the left side) to retain the stitch:

Row 1: cast off 17 sts, k 4, yo, p 42, k 4.

Row 2: k 46, k 5.

Cast off all stitches leaving 1 yard of yarn for sewing ( or keep stitches in stitches holder, and cut yarn leaving 3 yard tail).

Poncho Front Part:

Work like back until you finish row 14 after side increases.

Now work to shape the V neck opening: 

V Neck Opening:

Work on as follows starting with the wrong side row:

Row 1: k 4, p 42, k 15, p 42, k 4.(row 15 in back instructions)

Note: Mark the center st, in the middle of the center k 15.

Row 2: k 46, yo, k2tog, k 5 (front right side), cast off next 3 sts (the first one is the center middle st), k 3, k2togtbl, yo, k 46 (front left side).

Front Left Side:

With wrong side row, work as follows:

Row 3: k 4, p 42, k 5.

Row 4: k 3, k2togtbl, yo, k 46.

Row 5: repeat row 3.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 fourteen times, cast off all stitches ( or, put stitches in a stitch holder).

Front Right Side:

Insert the knitting needle in the center front stitch (that has been cast off when working the left side) to retain the stitch:

Row 1: cast off 3 sts, k 5, p 42, k 4.

Row 2: k 46, yo, k2tog, k 3, turn.

Row 3: k 5, p 42, k 4.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen times, cast off all stitches (or put stitches in a stitch holder).

Attaching shoulder seams:

Sew left and back shoulder seams of back and front parts together using any sewing method you prefer, weave in loose ends.

Or, if you are familiar with Kitchener stitch, attach left and right shoulders of back and front parts together using this method, weave in loose ends.

 

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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Lime-O-nade Shawl

Hello friends! another year is about to wrap up. I had my ups and downs, but some of the best moments I've had were definitely the ones spent making crafts. This is the last post for 2018, made with love and yarn that is 20% wool, very suitable for the winter, and it has some twists in its design; it's not the traditional triangle-shape, and it has a unique color combination. I am hoping 2019 will bring with it new Ideas, new yarn, more posts and more joyful times that alleviate the stress during bad days. I wish you all the same. Happy new year to you all! 

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