Monday, June 18, 2018

Easy Pinky Tote Bag





Hello friends, I am still on track in my project to work all my yarn stash before the next autumn/winter season. I had four skeins, white and pink that I've bought in a very small shop in downtown Amman. two pink and two white, and since I've been thinking of making tote bags because they are a summer must have, I've made not one but two, this is the first, hope you like it.

Dimensions: 12.5 inch x 16.5 inch (32 cm x 42 cm) (height x width).

Gauge: 20 sc x 21 rows (4 x 4 inch/ 10 x 10 cm)

Materials:
Yarn: about 500 yard/450 meter of each ;white and pink yarn, worsted/aran.
Hook: size H /5 mm.
Buttons: 1 big button 1 3/4 inch (4.5 cm) diameter, 2 small 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter each.
Ring: metal or wood, 2 inch (5 cm) diameter
Stitch markers
Yarn needle




Terms (US)

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
tc: treble crochet
2sctog: 2 single crochet together
tripicot : ch 3, ss to sc before.




Level: easy

Instructions:

with pink yarn, chain 67 st.



Round 1: dc 2 in the 3rd ch from hook, dc in each ch to last ch, dc 5 in ch (mark the middle dc), dc into other side of each ch, dc 2 in the first ch, ss to second ch of first ch 2.

Round 2: ch 2, dc in same st, dc 2 in 3 next dc, dc in each st till 3 sts before the marked st, dc 2 in each 3 sts, dc 3 in marked st (mark the middle st), dc 2 in next 3 sts, dc in each dc to last 3 sts, dc 2 in each st, dc in the first st, ss to the second ch of first ch 2.

Round 3: ch 2, dc in same st, *dc, dc 2, repeat from * 3 times, dc in each st till 6 sts before marked st, * dc 2, dc, repeat from * 3 times, dc 3 in marked st, *dc, dc 2, repeat from * 3 times, dc in each st till last 6 sts, * dc 2, dc, repeat from * 3 times, dc in first st, ss to the second ch of first ch 2.

Round 4: ch 1, sc through back post in the same st and every st to end of round, ss to the first sc.




Bind on white yarn, from the next round you will be working alternate color rounds.

Round 5: (with white yarn) ch 1, sc in the same st, dc, trc, dc, *sc, dc, trc, dc, repeat from * to end of round, ss to first sc.

Round 6: (with pink yarn) ch 3, dc, *sc, dc, trc, dc, repeat from * to end of round, ss to 3rd ch of first ch 3.

Repeat rounds 5 and 6 fifteen times, then repeat round 5 one more time.




Cut white yarn, next Round: ch 1, sc in each st to end, ss to first ch. 
Repeat 7 times, cut yarn.


Bag straps

put the tote bag flat and mark each side st. then mark the 13th st on both sides of each marked st (27 sts on each side).

Long strap:

Row 1: facing  outside, bind on white yarn to first st of the right side of marked sts, ch 1, sc through back post in the same st, and every st, turn. (27 sts of the strap)

Decreasing rows

Row 2: ch 1, skip first st, sc in next st and every st to end of row, turn. (26 sts)

repeat this row till you reach an 11 st row.



Next row: ch 1, sc in the same st and each to end of row, turn (11 sts)
 Repeat this row till the strap's length equals 19 3/4 inch (50 cm).




Button hole rows:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in next 3 sts, skip 3 sts, ch 3, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 in ch 3 space, sc to end of row, turn.

Work 2 more sc rows, cut yarn.

Short strap (left one)

Work the same as the long strap till the strap's length equals  9 inch (23 cm), cut yarn.



Making button hole closure patch:

Mark the center st of the back of bag with a stitch marker, then count 8 sts on each side and put a st marker. (17 sts)

With pink yarn and facing outside, ch 1, sc in the same st and in every st to end of the 17 sts, turn.

Repeat this row 7 times. make the button hole rows:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in the same st and next 4 sts, skip 7 sts, ch 6, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in the same st and next 4 sts, sc 7 in ch 6 space, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 3 and 4: ch 1, sc in the next st and every st to end of row, turn. (15 sts)

Row 5 and 6: ch 1, skip st, 2sctog, sc to end of row, turn, (11 sts) cut yarn, weave in all loose ends of the bag.

Straps edging row:

with white yarn and facing outside, bind on yarn to the st on bag next to any strap first row, ch 1, sc through back post, then work next into side of the strap, *3chpicot, skip st, sc, repeat from * through long side, end row, and other long side of the strap, ss through back post of the first st of bag beside the strap first row, cut yarn, work the same for second strap, weave in loose ends. 
  
Closure patch edging row: 

with pink yarn and facing outside, bind on yarn to the st on bag next to the patch first row, ch 1, sc through back post, then work next into side of the patch, *3chpicot, skip st, sc, repeat from * through short side, end row, other short side of the patch, ss through back post of the first st of bag beside the patch first row, cut yarn, weave in loose end.




Sew small buttons on outside of the center long strap, 4 inch (10 cm), and 7 inch (18 cm) from  last row. On the short strap, sew the ring in place 1.5 inch (4 cm) from last row. 



Sew large button on center of the front of bag, in the first pink sc row. 



Block and enjoy your new tote bag.






Saturday, June 9, 2018

Granny Square Baby Booties






Hi friends, since I laid my eyes on Element Cal pattern, I've fallen in love with this technique, and tried to use it in a number of projects I've designed after; baby booties, baby shoes, baby blanket, and doilies.



because baby booties are small, the granny square of course is very  tiny one and not more than three rounds of the pattern are used, so it turned out to be flower granny square only, but it still looks nice.
Hope you like this pattern, make your own and share the photos with me, enjoy.





Notes:
  • To make different sizes of these booties, work them using different hook sizes. 
  • Two yarn colors are used; one is the main (yarn A) and few meters (yards) from a another color yarn (yarn B).
  • I always chain 2 to begin the dc round, because I think it makes the work look tighter, so feel free and begin with what you think suits you.
  • When crocheting the trc, always insert the hook into two rounds below, skipping the previous round, (it is also mentioned in the granny square tutorial). 

Materials:
  • Yarn: Alize Diva Silk effect (for the red booties and the blue booties), Alize cotton club yarn (for the yellow booties).
  • Hook size: 2.5 mm (for the red booties, which are suitable for six month old baby). 3 mm (for the blue booties, 6-9 months old), and 3.5 mm (for one year old).
  • Stitch markers
  • Yarn needle
  • Two matching buttons


Crochet terms:

  • ch: chain.
  • ss: slip stitch.
  • sc: single crochet.
  • hdc: half double crochet.
  • dc: double crochet.
  • 2sctog: 2 single crochet together.
  • 2dctog: 2 double crochet together.
  • 3sctog: 3 single crochet together.
  • 3dctog: 3 double crochet together.
  • trc: treble crochet.
  • bpdc: back post double crochet.
  • 7dctog: 7 double crochet together.

Level: intermediate

Tutorial instructions

Granny square:

Round 1: with yarn B, make a magic ring, or ch 5 and ss to first ch.

Round 2: ch 2, dc, ch 2, *dc 2, ch 2, repeat from * 3 times, ss to second ch of first ch 2.



Round 3: ss to first ch 2 space, {ch 2, trc to round 1 (the magic ring or first ch 5 ring), skipping the ch 2 space, dc, ch 2, dc, trc to the firt ring, dc} in ch 2 space, *(dc, trc, dc, ch 2, dc, trc, dc) in the next ch 2 space, repeat from * 3 times, ss to second ch of first ch 2. cut yarn weave in loose end.





 Round 4: with yarn A, in any ch 2 space,{make a knot and ch 2  trc to ch 2 space of round 2, dc, ch 2, dc, trc, dc} in the same ch 2 space, *(dc, trc in between the 2 dcs of round 2, dc) in between the next two dcs, (dc, trc to ch 2 space of round 2, dc, ch 2, dc, trc, dc) in next ch 2 space. repeat from * 3 times, (dc, trc in between the 2 dcs of round 2, dc), ss to first ch 2.






Round 5: ss to the first ch 2 space, ch 2, bpdc in each (dc, trc, dc) cluster 3 times, *sc 2 in ch 2 space, bpdc in each (dc, trc, dc) cluster 3 times, repeat from * twice, dc in ch 2 space, ch 31, ss to second ch of first ch 2.


   

Round 6: ch 2, dc in each st and each ch to the end of round, ss to the second ch of first ch 2.



Round 7 and 8: ch 2, dc in each st, ss to second ch of first ch 2.



Put a stitch marker in the st that extended from the middle trc stitch of the toe side of granny square, count 10 sts on each side and put stitch markers.
  
Round 9: this round is worked through back loops only, ch 2, dc in each st to first stitch marker, *2dctog, dc, repeat from * 3 times, 3dctog (center toe side), *dc, 2dctog, repeat from * 3 times. 


Now put a stitch marker in the extended st from the 16th ch you made in round 5 (in the heel part of the booty), count 7 sts on each side of center and put stitch markers. 
dc in each st to first stitch marker, *2dctog, dc, repeat twice, 3dctog (center heel side), *dc, 2dctog, repeat from * twice, dc in each st to end of round, ss to second ch of first ch 2.


Round 10: put stitch marker in each toe and heel center stitch, ch 2, dc in each st till 5 sts before toe center st, 2dctog twice, 3dctog, 2dctog twice, hdc, sc till 5 sts before heel center st, 2sctog twice, 3sctog, 2sctog twice, sc till last st, hdc, ss to 2nd st of first ch 2.




Round 11: keep the st marker on toe and heel center st. ch 2, dc till 3 sts before center toe st marker, 7dctog, dc till 3 sts before center heel st marker, 7dctog, dc to end of round, ss to 2nd ch of first ch 2, cut yarn leaving 20 cm (8 inches) to close the sole opening.







Making the back upper part (buckle belt) - wright booty:

Put a stitch marker in the 16th st of the 31 ch you made previously, this is the back heel center, and in each 11th st on each side (not counting the center heel st). 

Facing inside of the booty, with yarn A, make a knot and start working:


Row 1: ch 1, sc in next st and each st from st marker on wright side to left side of the booty, ch 7, bpsc in the center (3 sts cluster)  in the center free side of the granny square, ch 11, turn



Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st, sc in first ch 1, turn.


 Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st to last st, ch 4, skip last st, ss to ch of first row (the button hole is made), turn.

 
Row 4: sc 7 in the ch 4 button hole, sc in each st to end of row, cut yarn A, weave in loose ends.



Row 5: with yarn B, and from the beginning of the wright side of the belt, work 1 row of reverse sc pattern to end of the button hole.

Make the other booty, working the left side buckle belt vice versa. Sew buttons in place.








Sunday, May 27, 2018

Beaded Baby Booties




Hi friends, it's been a long time since I've posted, but from now on I'll post every item I make, talk about the experiment even if it's not new, and write notes about my own version and touches I make.



In this post I'll present my version of the 3Bees: Beaded Baby Booties. Watching videos on YouTube of Turkish tutorials, I've fallen in love with them, and made one of my own, taking into consideration to make them as simple as possible, hope you will find them easy to crochet too.


Notes:
1. All you need is yarn, suitable hook, stitch markers and lots of beads. I used Alize cotton club yarn which is 55% cotton, and 3 mm hook that matches it, about 250 colored small beads.
2. Sole length is 10 cm so it fits baby 9 to 12 months old.
3. Each booty is worked from center line of sole in rounds up to the last row continuously.
4. Before you start, insert half number of beads into the yarn using either a needle or a small size hook, or by using a needle threader (as I did) if the beads have small threading holes.
5. Always push beads away and pull enough yarn to work with in the first part of work before the beaded rounds.

Crochet terms used
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc: half double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double crochet
fptr: front post double crochet




Instructions:
Threading beads by using needle threader:

  1. insert a bead into the needle threader.
  2. thread the yarn through the hole.
  3. pull the bead out of the needle threader through the yarn.
  4. take the yarn out of the hole.
  5. repeat. (you will find the bellow photos helpful)







How to work the stitch with a bead
1. Pull few beads near the hook, yarn over.

2.Insert hook in stitch.

3. Pull one bead closer. 

4. hold the yarn and bead back the work with your middle finger, and yarn over. 





6. yarn over and pull two loops through hook.







6. yarn over again and pull through all three remaining loops. take out you finger, repeat.






Sole 
Make 15 ch.



 Round 1: dc 3 in 4th st, dc in each of next 10 sts, 7 dc in last st, turn work to other side, dc in each 10 sts, dc 3 in the next st, slip st to 3rd ch of first ch 3.



Round 2: ch 2, hdc in the same st, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 5 sts, dc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st (mark the center st of these 3 dc), 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 7 sts, hdc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, and now that all stitches are worked, hdc in the first st, slip st in the 2nd st of first ch 2.



Round 3: ch 2, hdc in the same st, (hdc, 2 hdc) twice, hdc in next 8 sts, dc in next 6 sts, (2 dc, dc) twice, 3 dc in center st (change stitch marker to the new center position), (dc, 2 dc) twice, dc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 8 sts, (2 hdc, hdc) twice, slip st to 2nd st of first ch 2.
 Sole is finished.





The sole now is about 10 cm (4 inches) long.




Round 4: ch 3 (doesnt count as st), bpdc in the same st, bpdc in each st, to end of row, slip st to first bpdc.



Round 5: ch 3, fpdc in the same st, *bpdc, fpdc, repeat from * to last st, bpdc in last st, slip st to first fpdc. (change the st marker position to new place, note that the center st must be fpdc st).



Round 6: repeat row 5. 



Mark the sixth bpdc st before and after the fpdc center st.



Round 7: ch 3, fpdc in the same st, *bpdc, fpdc, repeat from* to the first st marker, (bpdc, fpdc together) 5 times, in the center, (bpdc, center fpdc, bpdc together), (fpdc, bpdc together) 5 times, *fpdc, bpdc, repeat from * to end of row, slip st to first fpdc st. place a stitch marker in center st, and in the fifth st before and after the center st.



Round 8: ch 3, fpdc in the same st, bpdc, *fpdc, bpdc, repeat from* to the first st marker, fptr in the next st, (4 fptr, center fptr, 4 fptr together), ch 1, fptr in the next st, *bpdc, fpdc, repear from * to last st, bpdc, slip st to first fpdc st.



Round 9: ch 1, sc in the same st and in each st to end of row, slip st to first ch 1.




Round 10: ch 3, dc in the same st and in every st to end of round, slip st to the first dc,

Turn work and face the inside.



Round 11: ch 2, work all sts as tutored above,  slip st to second ch of first ch 2.



Round 12: ch 3, dc in every st to end of round, slip st to 3rd ch of first ch 3.


Repeat rounds 11 and 12 two more times. cut yarn and weave in loose ends, make the second booty exactly the same. have a nice crocheting day.