Monday, July 16, 2018

Red Lozenge Scarf









A simple scarf, it takes just a day or so to make. It only requires one skein, unless you want it longer. You can wear it in the breezy summer nights.


Materials

Yarn: Nako Saten, 3.5 oz/ 100 g, 251 yards/ 230 m, color 207, one skein.
Hook: 4 mm/ US G
Red tassel: 10
Red beads: 30

Level: Intermediate
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US terms:
.
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
tr: treble crochet
Shell pattern: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc) in ch 3 space
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Measures:
..
6.5 x 52.5 inches/ 16.5 x 133.5 cm (approx.)
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Note:
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For crocheters who prefer to follow graph patterns, the pattern is at the bottom of this post.





Instructions
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Make 37 Ch.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, *skip 4 ch, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch, repeat from * six times, skip 4 ch, ch 5, sc in last ch turn.

Row 2: ch 6, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from * six times, (sc, ch 3, sc) in last ch 5 space, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in tr of previous row, * ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from * 3 times, make one shell in next ch 3 space, ** (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from ** 3 times, sc in ch 6 space, turn.

Row 4: ch 6, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from * twice, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, **(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from ** twice, (sc, ch 3, sc) in last ch 5 space, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, turn.

Row 5: ch 1, sc in tr of previous row, *ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from * twice, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 1, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, ch 5, (sc, ch 1, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, **(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5,  repeat from ** twice, sc in ch 6 space, turn.

Row 6: ch 6, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in last ch 5 space, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, turn.

Row 7: ch 1, sc in tr of previous row, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, *ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from * twice, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, sc in ch 6 space, turn.

Row 8: ch 6, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, *ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from * 3 times, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, turn.

Row 9: ch 1, sc in tr of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, *ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from * 4 times, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, sc in ch 6 space, turn.

Row 10: ch 6, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, * (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from * 4 times, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, turn.

Row 11: ch 1, sc in tr of previous row, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, * (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from * 3 times, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, ch 5, sc in ch 6 space, turn.

Row 12: ch 6, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from * 3 times, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in last ch 5 space, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, turn.

Row 13: ch 1, sc in tr of previous row, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, sc in ch 6 space, turn.


Row 14: ch 6, * (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from * twice, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, **ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from ** twice, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, turn.

Row 15: ch 1, sc in tr of previous row, *ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from * twice, ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, make one shell in next ch 3 space, (sc, ch 3, sc) in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, **ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch 5 space, repeat from ** twice, ch 5, sc in ch 6 space, turn.


Repeat rows (4-15) 9 times, or until you get the length you prefer. Then work last row

Last row:  ch 6, * sc in ch 5 space, ch 5, repeat from * 3 times, sc in center ch 1 space of shell of previous row, **ch 5, sc in ch 5 space, repeat from ** 3 times, ch 2, tr in last sc of previous row, cut yarn.

Weave in loose ends, insert 3 beads in each tassel, sew beaded tassels in place on each end of scarf, enjoy.





Thursday, July 5, 2018

Stripe Block Tote Bag







The second tote bag that I've made was actually a baby blanket I saw in Pinterest, but somewhere in between the start and finish, I just quit, and let the project away for about two years, then came across my eyes when going ahead in my "finish all left projects" resolution.
When I looked at the rectangle block, I saw the bag that could come out of it, and here you are, see the final product; it's easy to make, beautiful to look at, and practical to use. have fun making it.


Dimensions: 15 inch x 16.5 inch (38 cm x 42 cm) (height x width).

Gauge: 20 sc x 21 rows (4 x 4 inch/ 10 x 10 cm)

Materials:
Yarn: about 500 yard/450 meter of each ;white and pink yarn, worsted/aran.
Hook: size H /5 mm.
Rope: 1.5 m
Yarn needle


Terms (US)

ch: chain

ss: slip stitch

sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet

dc: double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet

Level: intermediate

Instructions:

Note: to make fpdc in row 3, insert hook in front of the single crochet stitch of row 1. To work fpdc in the rest of  rows, insert hook in previous fpdc.

First Pink Stripe

with pink yarn, chain 153 st.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and every ch to end.(152 sts)

Row 2: ch 1, sc in first st and every st to end of row.(152 sts)

Row 3: ch 1, sc in first st, {*fpdc in the next, sc, repeat from * 7 times, fpdc, sc 15}, repeat between brackets 5 times, sc. 

Repeat rows 2 and 3 ten times, cut pink yarn.

White Stripe

Bind on white yarn, repeat row 2 once:
Row 4: ch 1, sc 16, {*fpdc in the next, sc, repeat from * 7 times, fpdc, sc 15}, repeat between brackets 4 times, *fpdc in the next, sc, repeat from * 7 times, fpdc, sc.

Repeat rows 2 and 4 ten times, cut white yarn, bind on pink yarn.

Repeat  pink stripe and  white stripe one more time, then repeat pink stripe one last time.


Fold the rectangle along center line, with pink yarn, on each side join both edges by working reverse single crochet pattern in each stitch. Or you can sew the two edges together first to make it easier.

Upper edging:

With pink yarn, work reverse single crochet row, making a reverse stitch in the border of one row and skipping next row, repeat along the upper opening, cut yarn.



 Handles (make two)

With white yarn (made with pink yarn in contemplate photos), make 100 ch:

Row 1: hdc in the second ch from hook, sc in each ch to last 2 chains, hdc, dc 6 in last ch, turn work to other side; hdc, sc in each ch to first  2 ch, hdc, then dc 6 in the first ch.


Row 2: hdc in first st, sc in each sc of first row, hdc in hdc, dc 2 in each of 6 dc, hdc in hdc, sc in each sc, hdc in hdc, dc 2 in each of 6 dc, hdc in hdc, ss.


Cut the rope in half, put one half on wrong side of the handle.



Fold both long sides together, holding the rope inside, ss each sts together to end of single stitches, cut yarn. 



Trim the rope ends to suit the handle and sew the round edges in place on sides of the bag.


Weave in loose ends, grab the bag, put your necessary things, and off you go to enjoy your summer days.



Monday, June 18, 2018

Easy Pinky Tote Bag





Hello friends, I am still on track in my project to work all my yarn stash before the next autumn/winter season. I had four skeins, white and pink that I've bought in a very small shop in downtown Amman. two pink and two white, and since I've been thinking of making tote bags because they are a summer must have, I've made not one but two, this is the first, hope you like it.

Dimensions: 12.5 inch x 16.5 inch (32 cm x 42 cm) (height x width).

Gauge: 20 sc x 21 rows (4 x 4 inch/ 10 x 10 cm)

Materials:
Yarn: about 500 yard/450 meter of each ;white and pink yarn, worsted/aran.
Hook: size H /5 mm.
Buttons: 1 big button 1 3/4 inch (4.5 cm) diameter, 2 small 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter each.
Ring: metal or wood, 2 inch (5 cm) diameter
Stitch markers
Yarn needle




Terms (US)

ch: chain
ss: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
tc: treble crochet
2sctog: 2 single crochet together
tripicot : ch 3, ss to sc before.




Level: easy

Instructions:

with pink yarn, chain 67 st.



Round 1: dc 2 in the 3rd ch from hook, dc in each ch to last ch, dc 5 in ch (mark the middle dc), dc into other side of each ch, dc 2 in the first ch, ss to second ch of first ch 2.

Round 2: ch 2, dc in same st, dc 2 in 3 next dc, dc in each st till 3 sts before the marked st, dc 2 in each 3 sts, dc 3 in marked st (mark the middle st), dc 2 in next 3 sts, dc in each dc to last 3 sts, dc 2 in each st, dc in the first st, ss to the second ch of first ch 2.

Round 3: ch 2, dc in same st, *dc, dc 2, repeat from * 3 times, dc in each st till 6 sts before marked st, * dc 2, dc, repeat from * 3 times, dc 3 in marked st, *dc, dc 2, repeat from * 3 times, dc in each st till last 6 sts, * dc 2, dc, repeat from * 3 times, dc in first st, ss to the second ch of first ch 2.

Round 4: ch 1, sc through back post in the same st and every st to end of round, ss to the first sc.




Bind on white yarn, from the next round you will be working alternate color rounds.

Round 5: (with white yarn) ch 1, sc in the same st, dc, trc, dc, *sc, dc, trc, dc, repeat from * to end of round, ss to first sc.

Round 6: (with pink yarn) ch 3, dc, *sc, dc, trc, dc, repeat from * to end of round, ss to 3rd ch of first ch 3.

Repeat rounds 5 and 6 fifteen times, then repeat round 5 one more time.




Cut white yarn, next Round: ch 1, sc in each st to end, ss to first ch. 
Repeat 7 times, cut yarn.


Bag straps

put the tote bag flat and mark each side st. then mark the 13th st on both sides of each marked st (27 sts on each side).

Long strap:

Row 1: facing  outside, bind on white yarn to first st of the right side of marked sts, ch 1, sc through back post in the same st, and every st, turn. (27 sts of the strap)

Decreasing rows

Row 2: ch 1, skip first st, sc in next st and every st to end of row, turn. (26 sts)

repeat this row till you reach an 11 st row.



Next row: ch 1, sc in the same st and each to end of row, turn (11 sts)
 Repeat this row till the strap's length equals 19 3/4 inch (50 cm).




Button hole rows:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in next 3 sts, skip 3 sts, ch 3, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 in ch 3 space, sc to end of row, turn.

Work 2 more sc rows, cut yarn.

Short strap (left one)

Work the same as the long strap till the strap's length equals  9 inch (23 cm), cut yarn.



Making button hole closure patch:

Mark the center st of the back of bag with a stitch marker, then count 8 sts on each side and put a st marker. (17 sts)

With pink yarn and facing outside, ch 1, sc in the same st and in every st to end of the 17 sts, turn.

Repeat this row 7 times. make the button hole rows:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in the same st and next 4 sts, skip 7 sts, ch 6, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in the same st and next 4 sts, sc 7 in ch 6 space, sc to end of row, turn.

Row 3 and 4: ch 1, sc in the next st and every st to end of row, turn. (15 sts)

Row 5 and 6: ch 1, skip st, 2sctog, sc to end of row, turn, (11 sts) cut yarn, weave in all loose ends of the bag.

Straps edging row:

with white yarn and facing outside, bind on yarn to the st on bag next to any strap first row, ch 1, sc through back post, then work next into side of the strap, *3chpicot, skip st, sc, repeat from * through long side, end row, and other long side of the strap, ss through back post of the first st of bag beside the strap first row, cut yarn, work the same for second strap, weave in loose ends. 
  
Closure patch edging row: 

with pink yarn and facing outside, bind on yarn to the st on bag next to the patch first row, ch 1, sc through back post, then work next into side of the patch, *3chpicot, skip st, sc, repeat from * through short side, end row, other short side of the patch, ss through back post of the first st of bag beside the patch first row, cut yarn, weave in loose end.




Sew small buttons on outside of the center long strap, 4 inch (10 cm), and 7 inch (18 cm) from  last row. On the short strap, sew the ring in place 1.5 inch (4 cm) from last row. 



Sew large button on center of the front of bag, in the first pink sc row. 



Block and enjoy your new tote bag.






Saturday, June 9, 2018

Granny Square Baby Booties






Hi friends, since I laid my eyes on Element Cal pattern, I've fallen in love with this technique, and tried to use it in a number of projects I've designed after; baby booties, baby shoes, baby blanket, and doilies.



because baby booties are small, the granny square of course is very  tiny one and not more than three rounds of the pattern are used, so it turned out to be flower granny square only, but it still looks nice.
Hope you like this pattern, make your own and share the photos with me, enjoy.





Notes:
  • To make different sizes of these booties, work them using different hook sizes. 
  • Two yarn colors are used; one is the main (yarn A) and few meters (yards) from a another color yarn (yarn B).
  • I always chain 2 to begin the dc round, because I think it makes the work look tighter, so feel free and begin with what you think suits you.
  • When crocheting the trc, always insert the hook into two rounds below, skipping the previous round, (it is also mentioned in the granny square tutorial). 

Materials:
  • Yarn: Alize Diva Silk effect (for the red booties and the blue booties), Alize cotton club yarn (for the yellow booties).
  • Hook size: 2.5 mm (for the red booties, which are suitable for six month old baby). 3 mm (for the blue booties, 6-9 months old), and 3.5 mm (for one year old).
  • Stitch markers
  • Yarn needle
  • Two matching buttons


Crochet terms:

  • ch: chain.
  • ss: slip stitch.
  • sc: single crochet.
  • hdc: half double crochet.
  • dc: double crochet.
  • 2sctog: 2 single crochet together.
  • 2dctog: 2 double crochet together.
  • 3sctog: 3 single crochet together.
  • 3dctog: 3 double crochet together.
  • trc: treble crochet.
  • bpdc: back post double crochet.
  • 7dctog: 7 double crochet together.

Level: intermediate

Tutorial instructions

Granny square:

Round 1: with yarn B, make a magic ring, or ch 5 and ss to first ch.

Round 2: ch 2, dc, ch 2, *dc 2, ch 2, repeat from * 3 times, ss to second ch of first ch 2.



Round 3: ss to first ch 2 space, {ch 2, trc to round 1 (the magic ring or first ch 5 ring), skipping the ch 2 space, dc, ch 2, dc, trc to the firt ring, dc} in ch 2 space, *(dc, trc, dc, ch 2, dc, trc, dc) in the next ch 2 space, repeat from * 3 times, ss to second ch of first ch 2. cut yarn weave in loose end.





 Round 4: with yarn A, in any ch 2 space,{make a knot and ch 2  trc to ch 2 space of round 2, dc, ch 2, dc, trc, dc} in the same ch 2 space, *(dc, trc in between the 2 dcs of round 2, dc) in between the next two dcs, (dc, trc to ch 2 space of round 2, dc, ch 2, dc, trc, dc) in next ch 2 space. repeat from * 3 times, (dc, trc in between the 2 dcs of round 2, dc), ss to first ch 2.






Round 5: ss to the first ch 2 space, ch 2, bpdc in each (dc, trc, dc) cluster 3 times, *sc 2 in ch 2 space, bpdc in each (dc, trc, dc) cluster 3 times, repeat from * twice, dc in ch 2 space, ch 31, ss to second ch of first ch 2.


   

Round 6: ch 2, dc in each st and each ch to the end of round, ss to the second ch of first ch 2.



Round 7 and 8: ch 2, dc in each st, ss to second ch of first ch 2.



Put a stitch marker in the st that extended from the middle trc stitch of the toe side of granny square, count 10 sts on each side and put stitch markers.
  
Round 9: this round is worked through back loops only, ch 2, dc in each st to first stitch marker, *2dctog, dc, repeat from * 3 times, 3dctog (center toe side), *dc, 2dctog, repeat from * 3 times. 


Now put a stitch marker in the extended st from the 16th ch you made in round 5 (in the heel part of the booty), count 7 sts on each side of center and put stitch markers. 
dc in each st to first stitch marker, *2dctog, dc, repeat twice, 3dctog (center heel side), *dc, 2dctog, repeat from * twice, dc in each st to end of round, ss to second ch of first ch 2.


Round 10: put stitch marker in each toe and heel center stitch, ch 2, dc in each st till 5 sts before toe center st, 2dctog twice, 3dctog, 2dctog twice, hdc, sc till 5 sts before heel center st, 2sctog twice, 3sctog, 2sctog twice, sc till last st, hdc, ss to 2nd st of first ch 2.




Round 11: keep the st marker on toe and heel center st. ch 2, dc till 3 sts before center toe st marker, 7dctog, dc till 3 sts before center heel st marker, 7dctog, dc to end of round, ss to 2nd ch of first ch 2, cut yarn leaving 20 cm (8 inches) to close the sole opening.







Making the back upper part (buckle belt) - wright booty:

Put a stitch marker in the 16th st of the 31 ch you made previously, this is the back heel center, and in each 11th st on each side (not counting the center heel st). 

Facing inside of the booty, with yarn A, make a knot and start working:


Row 1: ch 1, sc in next st and each st from st marker on wright side to left side of the booty, ch 7, bpsc in the center (3 sts cluster)  in the center free side of the granny square, ch 11, turn



Row 2: ch 1, sc in each st, sc in first ch 1, turn.


 Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st to last st, ch 4, skip last st, ss to ch of first row (the button hole is made), turn.

 
Row 4: sc 7 in the ch 4 button hole, sc in each st to end of row, cut yarn A, weave in loose ends.



Row 5: with yarn B, and from the beginning of the wright side of the belt, work 1 row of reverse sc pattern to end of the button hole.

Make the other booty, working the left side buckle belt vice versa. Sew buttons in place.