Inca Inspired Shawl





I can't imagine how quickly time goes by, the first half of the year has already passed. So, it's about time to start preparing projects for cold months, and see what is needed to work them.

As a matter of fact, I didn't do many pieces that can be called summer projects, such as doilies, light shawls and baby cotton blankets, because almost all my yarn stash this year has been bulky and woolly.

This project's yarn is an old fine wool, originally designated for making socks. I purchased it more than ten years ago. It's obvious that I can't design adult socks, so I was inspired lately by the Inca old clothing to turn it into a light shawl with fringes, it's simple, yet elegant, and suitable for many outdoor occasions. I hope you have fun knitting it.

Level: easy


GET printable PDF for this pattern here.


Material:

  • Sockenwolle “sirmione”, 100% premium acrylic, 50 g. / 1.76 oz., 210 m / 230 yards: 4 skeins.
  • (Suggestion: You can use any fine yarn suitable for knitting socks, and work it using thicker needles than what is suggested by the manufacturer. It should get you the same result).
  • Circular needles, 4.5 mm/ 7 US, 100 cm/ 40” long.
  • Stitch marker ring.
  • Tapestry needle.


 
Measurements: width = 178 cm /70”, height = 56 cm/ 22” .
 

Yardage: 820- 840 m/ 895- 915 yards.

Gauge: 19 st x 39 row in garter stitch.





Knitting terms:

  • k: knit
  • yo: yarn over
  • yot: yarn over twice


Garter stitch:
knit all rows.




Instructions:

Cast on 5 sts, k one row, put a stitch marker in center st, always keep the stitch marker in the center st, work as follows:

Row 1: *k 1, yo, repeat from * four times, k 1, turn.

Row 2: k 1, yo, k to last st, yo, k 1, turn.

Row 3: k 1, yo, k to center st, yot, k 1, yot, k to last st, yo, k 1, turn.

Row 4: k 1, yo, k all sts (k the yot as 1 st) to last st, yo, k 1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4, until sts count 495, or you get the desired measures (total number equals= multiple of 4+1), knit one row.



Cast off Row:

Follow the steps:

1. co 2 sts.

2. *insert left needle into the right needle st from back to front, yo the right needle and draw it out to make a new stitch (like making a chain in crochet), pull out the left needle, repeat from * 4 times.




3. Insert left needle into the root of the same stitch (that you made 4 chains into) from back to front and knit one st, now there are 2 sts in right needle, slip the first over the second.



4. Cast off 4 sts.


Repeat steps (2 - 4) to the last 3 sts, cast them off, cut yarn.

Weave in loose ends, make a six strands (30 cm long each) bundles for fringes, and insert them in first and last eight (4 ch rings), middle fifteen (4 ch rings) and every alternate rings in between.



Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

Parachutes Cowl




A new post and a new Cowl design; the domain that I'm fond of and excel in (in my opinion). I love experimenting with new stitch patterns, and I have many boards in pinterest dedicated to collecting them. From time to time I try incorporating some of these ideas in my designs, for example my Lady Cool Shawl in knitting, and Little Lily Nap Blanket in crochet.

This Cowl is simple to make and warm to wear. It is made out of two skeins of worsted yarn. My only reason to rate it as "Intermediate" is the use of a stitch holder, which some of you may find a little hard to handle. Apart from that, it's easy, and can be finished in less than one day of work.


Skill level: Intermediate 


Materials:

  • Nako vison yarn, 100% premium acrylic, 100 g. / 3.53 oz., 195m / 213 yards: (color A) gray 23403, 1 skein and (color B) Red 251, 1 skein.
  • Circular needles, 7 mm, 60 cm/ 24” long.
  • Stitch marker ring.
  • Small stitch holder.
  • Tapestry needle.






Dimensions: height = 10.5” (27 cm), circumference = 31” (79 cm), approx.


Yardage: 305- 315 yards (
280- 290 m).


Gauge: 14 sts and 16 rounds = 4" x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in 
stockinette stitch


Knitting terms:

  • st: stitch
  • sts: stitches.
  • k: knit.
  • p: purl.
  • sstbl: slip stitch through back loop.





Instructions:

Notes:
  • Always insert a stitch marker ring at the end of each round and do not forget to slip it from left to right needle.
  • Pay attention to the change in colors every two rounds.

With (A) yarn, cast on 104 sts using long tail method, join in round, make sure that all stitches are straight and not twisted.

Don't know how to join in the round? here is a short tutorial on how to do it (from 0:26 - 1:15 min): 

 






Use both yarn and what is left of the tail to work first four stitches, to get a better and neater look.
Band round: k 2, p 2. Repeat this row 5 times, and then knit 2 rounds.

Parachutes stitch pattern:

Multiple of 8 sts. Join (B) yarn.
Rounds 1 and 2 (B): k 3, *sstbl 2, k 6, repeat from * to last 5 sts, sstbl 2, k 3. Round 3 (A): k 1, *put next 2 sts in st holder in back of work, k 1 (the slipped stitch), put the 2 sts back and k them.

Put next ss in the st holder in front of work, k 2, put the ss back and knit it, k 2, repeat from * to last 7 sts.

Put next 2 sts in st holder in back of work, k 1 (the slipped stitch), put the 2 sts back and k them, put next ss in the st holder in front of work, k 2, put the ss back and knit it, k 1.
Round 4 (A): k all sts. Round 5 and 6 (B): sstbl, *k 6, sstbl 2, repeat from * to last 7 sts, k 6, sstbl. Round 7 (A): *put ss in the st holder in front of work, k 2, put the ss back and knit it, k 2, put next 2 sts in st holder in back of work, k 1 (the slipped stitch), put the 2 sts back and k them, repeat from * to end. Round 8 (A): k all sts.

Repeat rounds 1- 8 five times, cut red yarn (B).




Work as follows:

Band Round: k 2, p 2 to end. Repeat five times. You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 

 

Bind off using stretchy method, Weave in loose ends.



Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram to see my upcoming projects @wiams_crafts.


"Tulip Glow In Black" Dress


I love making crochet dresses for toddlers; it has been one of my favorite past times ever since I learned making clothes when I was fifteen years old. Back then, I used to make garments for my younger sisters, and later in life, for my daughters. I also like mixing between my hobbies, by combining sewing with crochet, for example, when making dresses.

The dress in this post is not actually a new design; I made it several years ago. And as I mentioned in a previous post, what prevents me from sharing similar designs is the sewing/crocheting mix in the tutorial instructions, and how not every person who excels in crocheting/knitting can also sew and vice versa.

Nevertheless, if you like the yokes I make, and you are familiar with making crochet dresses, then feel free to finish the dress with whatever crochet skirt design you like. The yoke is simple, and its instructions are both written and illustrated. I hope you find it suitable for your beloved little missies.

Intermediate level



Materials:
  • Yarn: Catania Schachenmaer Fine, 100% cotton, 50g, 125m in Black 00110 (3 skeins), White 00106 (1 skein), Red 00115 (1 skein), and Green 00419 (1 skein).
  • Hook, size 3.5 mm/ US 4.
  • Yarn needle
  • Three buttons, 1.5 cm diameter.


Gauge: 

28 sts x 27 rows in 4 x 4 inches
sc stitch pattern.


Yardage:

  • 250-300 m/ 280-350 yards (size 3 years) approx.
  • 300-350 m/ 330-385 yards ( size 5 years) approx.



Dimensions/ size:


  • 3 years old: 58 cm/23" under arm bust circumference, 20 cm/ 8" height from shoulder.
  • 5 years old: 65 cm/25.5" under arms bust, 25 cm/ 10" height from shoulder.



Crochet terms (US):
  • ch: chain.
  • ss: slip stitch.
  • sc: single crochet.
  • dc: double crochet.


How to make Popcorn stitch:
  1. Work 5 double crochet (dc) stitches in the same stitch.
  2. Drop the loop from your hook.
  3. Insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first double crochet of the group.
  4. Grab the dropped loop with your hook and pull it through the stitch.


Instructions:

Notes:
  • ch 1 at the beginning of rows is not a countable st.
  • When the popcorn row is finished on right side, the next sc row in black yarn is also worked on right side.
  • The instructions between parentheses are for the large size.

Back:

With black yarn and 3.5 mm hook, make 66 (78) chains

Row 1 (right side): sc in second ch and every ch, turn. (65, 77 sts)

Row 2: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: repeat row 2. cut yarn.



Tulip flower pattern

With green yarn, work next row:

Row 4: make a standing dc, (or ch 3 in first st), skip st, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in st, skip 2 sts, repeat from * to last 3 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in st, skip st, dc in last st, cut yarn, turn.

With red yarn, work next row:

Row 5 (right side): make a standing dc and ch 1, (or ch 4 in first st), skip dc, * popcorn st in ch 1 space, skip 2 dc, ch 2, repeat from * to last ch 1 space, popcorn in ch 1 space, skip dc, ch 1, dc in last dc (or in third ch of ch 3), cut yarn, don’t turn.

With black yarn:

Row 6 (right side): make a standing sc, (or ch 1 and sc in first st), sc in ch 1 space, *sc in popcorn st, sc 2 in ch 2 space, repeat from * to last popcorn, sc in popcorn, sc in ch 1 space, sc in last dc, turn.

Row 7 and 8: repeat row 2.

Row 9: with green yarn, repeat rows 4.

Row 10: with white yarn, repeat row 5 .

Row 11: with black yarn, repeat row 6.

With black yarn, repeat row 4 three times.



Right backside:

Arm line shaping and back opening:

Row 1: Ss 4, ch 1, sc 31 (37), turn. 31 (37) sts

Row 2: ch 1, sc 28 (34) turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc 26 (32), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 (27, 35) times.



Right Neckline shaping:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 10 (16), turn.

Repeat row 3 twice, cut yarn leaving 6 inches for shoulder seem sewing.



Left backside:

Arm line shaping and back opening:

With black yarn, bind on in fifth st of the first row of right backside center end (see the photo), work as follows:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 31(37), turn. 31(37) sts

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc 28 (34), turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 26 (32), turn.

Repeat row 3 once more.



Making first buttonhole:

Row 5: ch 1, sc 2, skip 2 sts, ch 2, sc to end, turn.

Row 6: ch 1, sc to ch 2 space, sc 2 in ch 2 space, sc to end, turn.

Row 7: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

*Repeat row 7 eleven (thirteen) times, repeat rows 5 and 6 to make second button hole, repeat from * once more time (making third button hole within), repeat row 7 once (three) times.



Left Neckline shaping:

Row 1: ss 11, ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc 12 (18), turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc (10, 16), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 once, cut yarn leaving 6 inches for shoulder seem sewing.






Front:

Work the same as back until arm lines shaping:

Row 1: Ss 4, ch 1, sc to last 4 sts, turn. 57 (69) sts

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc 63, turn. 51 (63 sts)

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc 59, turn. 47 (59 sts)

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 eighteen (twenty two) times, then make right side neckline shaping as follows:



Right neckline shaping:

Row 1: ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ss 3, ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc 10 (16), turn.

Repeat row 10 times, cut yarn.



Left neckline shaping:

Leave 17 center sts, bind on yarn, work as follows:

Row 1: ss 11, ch 1, sc 15 (21), turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc 12 (18), turn.

Row 3: ss 2, ch 1, sc (10, 16), turn.

Row 4: ch 1, sc to end, turn.

Repeat row 4 nine times, cut yarn.






Finishing instructions:

Sew back and front side seams together, sew shoulder seams together, sew buttons in place, work a sc row into the necklines and arm left and right openings. Weave in loose ends.

Make a skirt from a poplin cloth with matching dimensions, and sew it to the bust.

























Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.


Coral Bubbly Waves Shawlette


Note: This pattern has been reviewed and updated on July 18, 2022.

Ombre colored yarns are very inspiring, and the gradual shades can add to a simple shawl, poncho or any other wrap up cloth a more elegant appearance. Since I am a wildlife lover, the sea coral ombre yarn from Redheart is the most suitable for a project that invites all to love nature and protect the wildlife on land and underwater.

Short rows technique based designs always intrigue me, but sometimes you come across one that may seem too complicated to make. They require patience and dedication (which I lack, haha...), especially when multiple skein colors are involved. 

Similar to previous projects I made, like the Dragon Tail Shawl and Dragon Fire Cowl, this design incorporates the short rows technique. This time though, as you will see, I will take things up a notch. I included tutorial photos and written instructions on how to make the design, and I tried to present them as simple as possible, so make sure you follow the instructions closely.

NOTE: the two versions of this design are made following the exact same instructions. The differences in size and measurements are only due to the use of different yarn weights and needle sizes (see materials section).



Overview:
  • Skill level: Intermediate.
  • Instructions style: Written pattern.
  • Available Sizes: Shawlette (coral) and shawl (purple) (see detailed measurements below). 

Get the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern from my store:

Or click here to jump to the instructions.

 

Want to pin this project for later? Just hover or click on any of the images in this post then click the red "save" button.



Materials:

  • Coral (shawlette) version: 
    • Yarn weight: 4/ medium/ aran.
    • Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Ombre, 100% acrylic, 10 oz (283 g), 482 yards (440 m), in the color "Sea Coral" 3967 (1 skein).
    • Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 9 (5.5 mm).
  • Purple (shawl) version: 
    • Yarn weight: 5/ bulky. 
    • Yarn: Alize Superlana Midi Ombre Batik, 75% acrylic, 25% wool, 10.58 oz (300 g), 557 yards (510 m), in the color 7270 (1 skein).
    • Circular knitting needles, 32" (80 cm) long, size US 11 (8 mm).
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Ring stitch markers.

Measurements: 

  • Coral version: width = 57" (145 cm), height = 27.5" (70 cm), approx.
  • Purple version: width = 65" (163 cm), height = 29.5" (75 cm), approx.

Yardage: 

  • Coral version: 460 - 470 yards (420 - 430 m) approx.
  • Purple version: 550 - 555 yards (503 - 507 m) approx.

Gauge: 

  • Coral version: 14 sts and 26 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.
  • Purple version: 12 sts and 23 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in garter stitch.


Knitting Terms 
  • st: stitch.
  • sts: stitches.
  • sl st: slip stitch.
  • k: knit.
  • p: purl.
  • yo: yarn over.
  • ssk: slip, slip, then knit the 2 slipped sts together through back loops.
  • m1L: make one stitch increase left wise.
  • m1R: make one st increase right wise.
  • rsm: ring stitch marker.


Instructions:

Cast on 3 sts, k one row, then work as follows:

Row 1: k 1, m1L, k 1, m1R, k 1. (5 sts)

Row 2: k to end.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to end. (6 sts)

Repeat row 3 until you have 46 sts. In the last row, place a rsm after knitting 16 sts. Now you will start the first wave with the first 30 sts.

First "bubbles wave":

Row 1 (wright side): k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove the rsm, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 seven more times, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (65 sts)

Second wave: 

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, slip the rsm to right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (88 sts)

Third "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 1, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped sts back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (109 sts)

Fourth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 twenty-one more times, then work as follows:

Row 3: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove rsm, k 1, place rsm on right needle, p to last 2 sts, k 2. (132 sts)

Fifth "bubbles wave":

Row 1: k 2, m1L, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to rsm, k 1, remove rsm, k 3, bring yarn to front, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: p to last 2 sts, k 2.

Row 3: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, remove rsm, p 3, sl st, bring yarn to back, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 4: repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, repeat rows 1-2 once more, then work as follows:

Row 5: k 2, m1L, p to rsm, slip rsm to right needle, k to last st.

Rows 6 and 7: k 2, m1L, k to last st (don't forget to slip the rsm). (153 sts)

Sixth wave:

Row 1: k 2, m1L, k to rsm, remove st, k 5, sl st, bring yarn to front, place rsm on left needle, slip the slipped st back to left needle, turn.

Row 2: k to last st.

Repeat rows 1-2 nine more times. Remove rsm(173 sts)

Last wave:

Row: k 2, m1L, k to end.

Work this row until the end of skein (I did twenty repeats), leaving enough yarn for the bind off row. (193 sts)

Stretchy bind off row: k 2, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together, *k 1, slip the two sts back to left needle then knit them together. Repeat from * to end. 

Weave in loose ends.

You can watch my tutorial video for the stretchy bind off method here: 






Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.