Shell Play Coaster

 

Love coasters, they are easy to make, handy to use, and you can make one from leftovers yarn whenever you feel stressed due to problems in bigger crochet project.

Materials

•     Yarn; I used cotton yarn leftovers, green and honey colors. You can choose any combination of colors you prefer.
•    Hook size h/8 (5 mm).
•    Tapestry needle.

The coaster is about 5.75” (15 cm)

The instructions are written in US terms

Easy level

crochet terms used in the design

Ch: chain

Sl st: slip stitch

Sc: single stitch

Dc: double stitch

Ch-3 picot: chain 3, slip stitch to first chain

Making the coaster

With green, make a magic ring.

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as dc), 19 dc, sl st to 3^rd ch of the first ch 3. (20 sts)

Round 2: sl st to next st, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch2 space), dc in the same st, *skip st, (dc, ch 2 dc, this is called a crochet shell) in the next st, repeat to end, sl st to 3^rd ch of the first ch 5.

Round 3: sl sts to first ch2 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc, in the same ch2 space,*2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, in the next ch2 space (another crochet shell), repeat from * to end of round, sl st to 3^rd ch of the first ch 3.

Round 4: sl sts to first ch2 space, ch 3 (counts as dc), 6 dc in the same ch2 space, *7 dc in next ch2 space, repeat from * to end, sl st to 3^rd ch of the first ch 3, cut yarn.

bind on honey color yarn to first dc of any 7dc cluster.

Round 5: ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next 2 sts, make ch-3 picot, sc in the next 3 sts, sc between the 2 shells of the previous round, * sc in each 7 dc shell, sc between the 2 shells of the previous round, repeat from * to end, sl st to first ch of the round, cut yarn.

The inside honey color circle: make a knot with honey color yarn, place it under the coaster, *ch 2 through the upper part of dcs in the first round, below the shell of 2^nd round, ch 1 through space between 2 shells in the second round, ch 1 back to first round, repeat to end of round. Cut yarn, weave in loose ends of threads.

Enjoy and have a nice time loving, admiring your work as I do, don’t hesitate to give me notes please.

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Lily Coaster

 

Materials

·       Yarn; I used Alize “diva silk effect”, 100% Microfiber Acrylic (100g), one skein of red, pearl white, blue and dark blue. You can choose any combination of colors you prefer.

·       Hook size 3 m.

·       Tapestry needle.

·       Stitch marker.

The coaster is about 6” (15.25 cm)

The instructions are written in US terms

Intermediate level

Making the coaster

With pearl white, make a magic ring.

Round 1: ch 1 (counts as sc), 13 sc, sl st to first ch. (14 sts)

Round 2: ch 3, dc in the first st, 2 dc in the each st, sl st to 3^rd ch of the first ch 3. (28 sts)

Cut pearl white yarn, bind on red yarn to any st.

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the first st, dc, *2 dc, dc, repeat from * to end of round, sl st to 3^rd ch of the first ch 3. (42 sts)

Round 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the next 2 sts, *ch 2, dc in next 3 dc, repeat from * to end, ch 2, sl st to 3^rd ch of the first ch 3.

Cut red yarn, bind on pearl white yarn to any ch 2 space.

Round 5: (ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc) in the same ch 2 space, ch 2, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the next ch 2 space, ch 2, repeat from * to end, sl st to first ch of the round.

Round 6: sl st to ch 2 space, (ch 2, hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch 2 space, ch 2, *skip next ch 2 space, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next ch 2 space, ch 2, repeat from * to end, sl st to second ch of first ch 2.

Round 7: sl st to ch 2 space, (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the ch 2 space, ch 2, *skip next ch 2 space, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch 2 space, ch 2, repeat from * to end, sl st to third ch of first ch 3.

Cut pearl white yarn, bind on blue yarn.

Round 8: sl st to ch 2 space, (ch 3, 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the ch 2 space, ch 2, *skip next ch 2 space, (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch 2 space, ch 2, repeat from * to end, sl st to third ch of first ch 3.

Round 9: sl st to ch 2 space, (ch 3, 4 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in the ch 2 space, ch 2, *skip next ch 2 space, (5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in the next ch 2 space, ch 2, repeat from * to end, sl st to third ch of first ch 3.

Cut blue yarn, bind on dark blue yarn.

Round 10: sl st to ch 2 space, (ch 3, 10 dc) in the ch 2 space, ch 2, *skip next ch 2 space, (11 dc) in the next ch 2 space, ch 2, repeat from * to end, sl st to third ch of first ch 3.

Cut yarn, weave in loose ends of yarns.

Round 11: Bind on red yarn to first st of any 11 st groups, back loop only (all work in this round is through back loops of sts only), ch 1, sc in the same st, and the rest 10 sts, *placing yarn behind the coaster, ch 1 taking the 2 ch space of last round within, ch 2, ch 1 taking the ch 2 space of round 9 within, ch 1, ch 1 taking the ch 2 space of round 8 within, ch 1, taking the ch 2 space of round 7 within, ch 1, taking the ch 2 space of round 6 within, ch 1, taking the ch 2 space of round 5 within, ch 1 through the second st of 3 sts group of red in round 4, ch 1 through third st of the same red sts group, ch 1 taking the ch 2 space of round 5 within, ch 1, ch 1 taking the ch 2 space of round 6 within, ch 1, ch 1 taking the ch 2 space of round 7 within, ch 1, ch 1 taking the ch 2 space of round 8 within, ch 1, ch 1 taking the ch 2 space of round 9 within, ch 2*, (sc in next 11 sts through back loop only, repeat between **) work to the end, sl st to first ch 1 of the round.

Cut red yarn, weave in loose end.  

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Easy Beauty Dress

Easy beauty dress

Materials

Yoke:

• Yarn; Florence 100% cotton 50 g/ 125 meter, one skein of colors; red, green and white. For the edging, Alize “diva silk effect” color 450 (1 skein) 100% Microfiber Acrylic (100g-3.52 Oz/350 mt-383yds).
• Hook size 3.5 mm, and size 3 mm.
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
• 50 cm x 100 cm of red poplin cloth.
• Sewing threads of matching colors.

Size: 4 to 5 years

Yoke:

Chest: 68 cm (27”)

Length: 35 cm (13”)

Dress length: 70 cm (27.5”)

(All dimensions are approx.)

yoke 

The hexagon unit:

Make 12 of each color

Round 1: any cotton yarn, and 3.5 mm hook, start a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc 11, Sl st into the 3rd ch of the first 3 chs.

(12 dc)

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st, 2 dc into each st, sl st into the 3rd ch of the first 3 chs. (24 dc)

Round 3: ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc into the same st, *ch 2, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st*, repeat between ** till last 3 sts, ch 2, 2 dc in next st, dc in the last 2 sts, sl st into the 3rd ch of the first 3 chs, cut yarn, weave in thread.

Sew the granny squares together using red yarn (or the color you prefer that matches the cloth) as shown in the picture.

Edging:

With diva baby yarn, 3 mm hook, and Beginning at the 2 ch space of any two attached hexagons, with white yarn, bind thread on, (ch 1, sc, ch 3, sc) in the same 2 ch space, skip next st, *(sc, ch 3, sc) in the next st, repeat from * 2 more times, (sc, ch 3, sc, ch 5, sc, ch 3, sc) in 2 ch space that is not attached to other hexagon, (sc, ch 3, sc) in the next st, repeat 2 more times, **(sc, ch 3, sc) in the next 2 ch space, repeat from ** one more time.

Work this edging pattern along two arm lines, neckline, and bottom yoke perimeter.

Sewing the skirt

Fold the cloth length wise to form a 50 x 50 two plies square, sew along back edges, make 3 pleads at the center front matching the pattern of the center front yoke, attach yoke to skirt using enough pins, sew.

Sew the skirt hem.  

Notes:

• Because I used cotton threads, I didn’t need to block the yoke.
• After I finished the dress, I noticed that the skirt should be wider, you can do that by making back pleads also, and in that case the dimensions of the cloth will be 50 cm x 130 cm.
• Each pleat is 10 cm width.

Enjoy making it, and enjoy watching a lovely child wearing it.Could you please share with me your opinion, your version of the dress, and any notes or corrections?

Thank you

Wiam

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The Ethereal Rose Cushion

The first pattern I ever made. It was available for purchase in my Raverly store, but I decided to post it here. I hope you enjoy making this pillow as much as I did.

Before you start:

·     This pattern is written in American terminology.

·      Because the yarn I’m using is quite thin, I made the popcorn stitch out of 6 double crochet instead of 5.

·       I started the round with 2 chain instead of 3.

·      The size of one square is approximately 12 cm x 12 cm / 4.7 inch x 4.7 inch. The size of the complete pillow is approximately 36 cm x 36 cm / 14.2 inch x 14.2 inch (excluding the border).

·      Repeat everything between *()* the stated number of times.

Materials:

·       Yarn:

Color A: Alize “diva silk effect” color 450 (1 skein) 100% Microfiber Acrylic (100g-3.52 Oz/350 mt-383yds)

Color B: Alize “diva baby” color 143 (2 skeins) 100% Microfiber Acrylic (100g-3.52 Oz/350 mt-383yds)

·       Hook size: 3.5 mm

·       Tapestry needle for weaving in

·       Fabric for the cushion cover (85 cm x 40 cm)

 Special stitches:

·    Popcorn stitch: make 6 dc in the same stitch, drop the loop from the hook and insert the hook front (through the first double crochet) to back, place the dropped loop on the hook, yarn over pull through the two loops, ch 1.

·   Single crochet two together: insert the hook into the first st, yarn over, pull up a loop insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through all loops.

·      Picot stitch: ch 3 , insert the hook in the center of the base st, yarn over, pull through all loops.

WRITTEN PATTERN

The single square (Make 9)

With color A make a magic ring

Round 1: into the magic ring make ch 4, (this counts as your first dc and ch 2), *(1 dc, ch 2)* Repeat 6 times.

Total: 7dc+ch2 and 8 ch-2 spaces

Sl st into the 2^nd chain from the beginning of the round

Round 2: sl st into the ch-2 space,

(Ch 2, 5 dc) this will make the first popcorn,

*(Ch 2, 1 popcorn in the next ch-2 space)* Repeat 6 times, ch 2.

Total: 8 popcorns with 8 ch-2 spaces

Sl st into the first popcorn.

Cut the thread and weave in the loose end.

Round 3: With color B make a standing double crochet (or ch 2) in any of the ch-2 spaces,

*(Ch 4, 1 dc in the next ch-2 space)* Repeat 6 times, ch 4,

Total: 8 dc with 8 ch-4 spaces between them

sl st into the first standing double crochet.

Round 4: ch 2, *(6 dc into the ch-4 space, 1 dc into the next dc)* Repeat 6 times, 6 dc in the last ch-4 space.

Sl st into the 2^nd chain of first ch 2.

Round 5: ch2, dc into each of the next 7 dc,

*(Popcorn in the next dc, dc into the next 3 dc, popcorn in the next dc, dc into each of the next 9 dc)* Repeat 2 times, Popcorn in the next dc, dc into the next 3 dc, popcorn in the next dc, dc in the last dc,

Sl st into the 2^nd chain of first ch 2.

Round 6: ch 2, dc in each of the next 2 dc

*(Popcorn in the next dc, dc in each of the next 6 dc)* Repeat 6 times,

Popcorn in the next dc, dc in each of the remaining 3 dc of the previous round,

Sl st into the 2^nd chain of first ch 2.

Round 7: ch 2, *(Popcorn in the next dc, dc in each of the next 3 dc, popcorn in the next dc, dc in the next dc, ch 13, skip the next 7 st, dc in the next dc)* Repeat 3 times skip the last dc in the third time,

Sl st into the 2^nd chain of first ch 2.

  

Round 8: ch 2, *(dc in the popcorn, dc in the next dc , popcorn in the next dc,  dc in each of the next 3 dc, , 9 dc into the ch-13 space, ch 3, 9 dc in the ch-13 space, dc in the next dc)* Repeat 3 times, skipping the last dc in the third time,

Sl st into the 2^nd chain of first ch 2.

Round 9 and 10: ch 2, dc in each st,

In the corner 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc

Sl st into the 2^nd chain of first ch 2.

Cut the thread, weave in the loose ends

After you finish round 10 you should have 33 dc in each side of the square.

Pattern Chart

Joining the squares: I used a slip stitch to join the squares together. Hold two squares together with the wrong sides facing outward and the right sides facing each other. Insert the hook into the outer loops of the two squares, yarn over pull the hook through all the loops.

 

Border:

Round 1 and round 6: Color A

Round 2, 3, 4 and 5: Color B

In the end of round one you should have 107 stitches in each side

  

Border chart

              

Completing the cushion:

I made a complete cover from fabric and then sewed the crochet square on it. It’s easier and less time consuming then crocheting the back.  

You can find the measurements of the fabric and how to sew in the pictures below

After you finish sewing the cover, place the crochet square on top of the cover and sew across the white color hdc round in the crochet border.

  

The back of the finished pillow

Happy crocheting.

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Cozy Scarf and Hat for a Cold Winter

Level: Intermediate


Materials:

• Yarn A: 4 skeins Nako Vizon (%100 premium acrylic) 100 g, 195 m, color No 185.
• Yarn B: 3 skeins Nako Vizon Anatolia (%100 premium acrylic) 100 g, 210 m, color No 80839.
• Knitting needles: size 4.5 mm (US 7).
• Circular needle: size 4.5 mm (US 7), 16” (40 cm) long.

Measurements:

• Scarf: approx. 13” x 90“(227 cm x 33 cm).
• Hat: approx. 20.5” (52 cm) circumference, 10” (26 cm) length.

Gauge

• 19 sts and 26 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stocking stitch for yarn A.
• 18 sts and 24 rows = 4"x 4" (10 cm x 10 cm) in stocking stitch for yarn B.

Abbreviations

• k: knit
• yo: yarn over
• m1: make 1 stitch increase
• ssk: Slip next 2 stitches knitwise one at a time. Pass them back onto left-hand needle, then knit through back loops together.
• sssk: Slip next 3 stitches knitwise one at a time. Pass them back onto left-hand needle, then knit through back loops together.

Instructions

The Scarf:

With yarn A, Cast on 64 sts (long tail method is preferred).   

Knit two rows, then work the first pattern:

Row 1: K2, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, knit them.

Row 2 and every even row: purl.

Row 3: K3, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, knit them.

Row 5: K4, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit them.

Row 6: purl.

These six rows are the first pattern. Repeat until scarf measures approx. 8 “(21 cm) from beginning, ending with sixth row of the first pattern.

Work second pattern:

Row 1: K2, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from *, change to yarn B, knit last 2 stitches.

Row 2 and every even row: purl the stitches with the same yarn color as previous row.

Row 3: K3, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, change to yarn B, yo, ssk, K2 stitches.

Row 5: K4, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, change to yarn B, ** yo, ssk**, repeat twice from **, K2 stitches.

Row 6: purl the stitches with the same yarn color as previous row.

Repeat these six rows, BUT, by adding two stitches knitted with yarn B, which means to add once more **yo, ssk**, and subtracting 2 stitches from yarn A in each knit row, until finishing the row that is purled entirely with yarn B, until the entire row worked with yarn color B. 

Work third pattern beginning with yarn B:

Row 1: K2, **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 30 times, change to yarn A, knit last 2 stitches.

Row 2 and every even row: purl the stitches with the same yarn color as previous row.

Row 3: K2, **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 29 times, change to yarn A, knit last 4 stitches.

Row 5: K2, **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 28 times, change to yarn A, K1, yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them, knit last 2 stitches.

Row 7: K2, **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 27 times, change to yarn A, K1, yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them, knit last 4 stitches.

Row 9: K2, **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 26 times, change to yarn A, K1, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from * twice, knit last 3 stitches.

Row 11: K2, **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 25 times, change to yarn A, K1, *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat from * 3 times, knit last 2 stitches.

Keep on decreasing two stitches from yarn color B on every right side, adding them to stitches worked with first pattern and yarn color A, until the entire row worked with yarn color A. 

Repeat the patterns alternating as many times as you like, I have worked five alternating colors as a whole.

The last time you have a total yarn color A, and first pattern row, work another 8” (21 cm) with ending with 1st row of the first pattern, knit 2 rows and cast off.

Block and weave in loose threads. Make 11 thread fringes from yarn B at each end of the scarf, each fringe made from 8 pieces of thread each 45 cm long (ending 16 in number and about 22 cm long after trimming).

The Hat:

With yarn color A and circular needles, cast on (long tail method preferable) 120 stitches. Work (Knit 1, purl 1) row and join to other end, taking care not to twist the work. Put a mark on the beginning of the row and work 9 more rows with the same pattern. Then work the decreasing row as follow:

*(Knit 1 m1, purl 1, knit, 1, purl 1), repeat from * to the end of row. (150 stitches)

Work as follow (don’t forget to mark the beginning of each row):

Round 1: {with yarn color A, work *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat 15 times, (45 stitches), join yarn B, work **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 15 time (30 stitches)}. Repeat between {} once more, (150 stitches in total).

Notes:

1. You must use separate skeins each time you change to another yarn.
2. Make sure that you cross the threads of two colors each time you change the yarn.

Round 2: turn work to wrong side, purl to the end of the row using the same yarns as the previous right side row.

Round 3: turn work right side, slip 2 stitches from the right side needle to the left one (the last two stitches of the last row), {with yarn A, work *yo, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches and pass slipped stitch over them*, repeat 15 times, (45 stitches), join yarn color B, work **yo, ssk** repeat from ** 15 time (30 stitches)}. Repeat between {} once more, (150 stitches in total).

Round 4: turn work to wrong side, purl to the end of the row using the same yarns as the previous right side row.

This means the colors and patterns will shift two stitches to the right each alternate row. Repeat rows 3 and 4, until the hat measures approx. 8” (20.5 cm), or longer if you want to make a slouch hat, with right side work, start decreasing pattern as follows:

Round 1: slip 4 stitches from the right side needle to the left one (the last 4 stitches of the previous row), {with yarn color A, work *yo, slip 2 stitch knitwise, k2tog, and pass slipped stitches over them*, repeat until last 4 stitches of yarn A, change to yarn color B, yo, sssk, ** yo, ssk**, repeat from ** until the last 4 stitches of yarn B}. Repeat between {} once more, (142 stitches in total).

Round 2: turn work to wrong side, purl to the end of the row using the same yarns as the previous right side row.

Repeat these two rows 8 more times, (78 stitches left). Then work the last row as follows:

(With color A yarn, sssk, to the last stitch, with color B yarn, ssk to last stitch), repeat between () one more time, cut last thread 10 inches long and pass it through remaining stitches, pull it tight and knot it securely, cut the other yarn threads and knot them together and weave end in.

Make a large pom-pom from color B, and thread it at the top of the hat.

Pattern 1 (click to enlarge)

Pattern 2 (click to enlarge)

Pattern 3 (click to enlarge)

Lastly, feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions or find something confusing in the pattern.

Happy crocheting/knitting! follow me on Instagram @wiams_crafts and Twitter @wiamscrafts to see my upcoming projects.

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